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Author Topic: Burned LITE-ON. Power connector upside-down.  (Read 3223 times)
Seven03
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« on: December 28, 2008, 11:38:32 PM »

Hi guys. I've read two similar topics about burned lite-ons but couldn't find any answer.

My story:

Soldered everything OK, connected properly to power and suddenly my R207 burned. I removed it, bridged with wire, tested the drive, it worked. Got back to soldering, soldered the 3 wires again and connected the drive to xbox. The final mistake was that the xbox was already on and i touched the wrong contacts when i tired to insert the power connector. There was some noise and smoke from other PCB side. I disconnected it as fast as i could. De soldered everything except the R207 bridge, tested the drive and got no signs of life.

Is there a chance that the controller chip is not burned? Is there a way to dump the key by soldering the wires directly to chip connectors? Huh

This is the point which burned.



The same spot on the the other side.


Technical help would be very appreciated.
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k0mpresd
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« Reply #1 on: December 29, 2008, 12:10:49 AM »

can there just be 1 thread for noob vs liteon? i mean how many people are going to cook their drive ?  Huh
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Seven03
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« Reply #2 on: December 29, 2008, 01:12:00 AM »

I was too tired to see what I'm ding wrong. Never flash at 4am again  Roll Eyes
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Gee99x
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« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2008, 01:26:41 AM »

There doesn't seem to be any visible cracks on the MT chip but that pic is really bad.. Can you see if any resistors or caps are fried? Maybe it can be salvaged using parts from other boards.

Then again- these are multi-layer boards so the problem may not be visible or could be visible but certainly not repairable.
« Last Edit: December 29, 2008, 01:28:23 AM by Gee99x » Logged
Seven03
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« Reply #4 on: December 29, 2008, 01:37:26 AM »

I've bridged damaged 0ohm resistor (R207). Others look fine.

Any suggestions? I just need to power it up. Maybe anyone knows what connects to that burned point? It says 102 on the side where controller sits.
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jelle2503
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« Reply #5 on: December 29, 2008, 09:09:20 AM »

can there just be 1 thread for noob vs liteon?

good point.. i reckon it'll be a big one as well XD
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kew1701
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« Reply #6 on: December 29, 2008, 03:43:19 PM »

Hi,i have exact problem like you.I think that burned hole doesent goes on 102,it's on some pin of mt1319l chip...but i dunno what pin Huh
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Gee99x
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« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2008, 02:46:41 AM »

Then test continuity with a multimeter. From the point that is burnt to each and every pin on the MT chip. You might not get any connectivity on the burnt point though. You will probably also get various readings as the trace/track could be running through caps, resistors, transistors...

It will take a lot of patience and some electronics knowledge to get it working again once you have stuffed it up. Depending on the damage of course.
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Seven03
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« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2008, 05:17:33 AM »

I study electronics. I will give it to my professor after the holiday. Will update the news Smiley

One more question. Anyone tried to reinstall the controller to another liteon pcb? Because i have one and i think i will give it a try. Well not me exactly, but someone from my university with mad soldering/hot air skills Smiley
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atikosh
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« Reply #9 on: December 30, 2008, 09:30:53 AM »


One more question. Anyone tried to reinstall the controller to another liteon pcb?

I reinstall one right now. Xbox recognize the drive, eject is working but its not reading. I don' t know why.
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atikosh
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« Reply #10 on: December 30, 2008, 09:45:06 AM »



Picture may help to track the vias under mtk.
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Seven03
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« Reply #11 on: December 30, 2008, 01:01:36 PM »

Thanks for the pic! It will be really helpful.

EDIT: Ok, so now i see that i was wrong about the dot on chip side. The burned one is the yellow one which connects the chip to 3.3V. I tested the connectivity between those two dots and it was ok. I'll try to trace the route and see where the traces are out of continuity but i think the chip itself could be damaged :/


« Last Edit: December 30, 2008, 01:26:11 PM by Seven03 » Logged
atikosh
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« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2008, 11:45:18 AM »


One more question. Anyone tried to reinstall the controller to another liteon pcb?

I reinstall one right now. Xbox recognize the drive, eject is working but its not reading. I don' t know why.


I reinstall mtk again and now its working.
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kew1701
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« Reply #13 on: December 31, 2008, 03:39:27 PM »

@atikosh how did u manage to desolder and solder it again,legs are so tiny...?
btw,can you dump the key now?
« Last Edit: December 31, 2008, 03:42:00 PM by kew1701 » Logged
atikosh
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« Reply #14 on: January 01, 2009, 08:42:54 AM »

@atikosh how did u manage to desolder and solder it again,legs are so tiny...?
btw,can you dump the key now?

It's not too hard if you have professional equipment.
btw, I can't dump the key but dvd-rom is working with original games. It seems that the tx input is damaged. You can see the how the control board f** at the picture.


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AbdouRetro
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« Reply #15 on: January 01, 2009, 03:17:58 PM »

so now a repair service could be offered
send in your liteon brick we send back the key
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neonpolaris
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« Reply #16 on: January 01, 2009, 04:43:27 PM »

He said that he couldn't get the key.  If the upside-down plug fries the serial lines on the chip itself, I don't see how anyone could pull keys off as a service.  True, it isn't proven that this is the case yet, it would be nice if someone could help out all these unfortunate people.

I'm imagining an improved extractor that actually tests the plug connection for correctness somehow before passing power.  Like those "auto correcting" jumper cables. Smiley

I'm still waiting on mine (on its way!), but I will certainly take a lesson from all of you on this board and do it in a well lit room, when not half asleep, and paying close attention.  I realize that it may fry the drive before even seated all the way, but what keeps you from figuring out the orientation *before* applying power to your ck3?
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