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turny
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« Reply #781 on: January 03, 2009, 04:19:10 PM » |
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recommended voltage for rs232 chip is 5v if you are powering up using the drive then 3.3v may not be quite enough to gain a stable read and a good key message , the recommended chip is rs3232 which can run on both 3.3v and 5v if you want to use that 232 adapter you may have to use a external 5v power source , or build yourself a rs3232 adapter ,
good luck
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Foppel
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« Reply #782 on: January 04, 2009, 11:33:19 AM » |
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Big thank to all and especcially to turny. I connect the 5V pin of a molex connector and remove C2. Then i was able to read out the Key from my Lite-On.  Excellent Forum
 greets - Foppel |
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kl1k
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« Reply #783 on: January 08, 2009, 06:48:36 AM » |
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I've build a RS3232 circuit which I've tested successfully with a loopback test. I've also followed Podger's tutorial on setting up Realterm. When I switch on my XBox I see streams of 00's - if I then eject the tray I see streams of 01's which according to what I've read means the max3232 and cable is working. Correct?
My question is are you supposed to see the 01's when the drive is open or closed, or half way. I only see 01's when its open and 00's when its closed.
I've tried dvdkey after that with Realterm open. I don't see the key in the hex dump and dvdkey fails.
Does this sound like the rs3232 is working, but now I need to look at the half open tray problem?
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Syriuz
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« Reply #784 on: January 11, 2009, 06:36:52 PM » |
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Hi, i'm new here. Can I flash a lite on drive with the connectivity kit and with a portable PC?
Regards.
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Arakon
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« Reply #785 on: January 11, 2009, 07:23:00 PM » |
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it might work under windows, yes.
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I do NOT give support by email, PM, ICQ or whatever. Anyone annoying me that way will have his balls removed. With a rusty butterknife. Slowly. And I'll enjoy doing it.
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Syriuz
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« Reply #786 on: January 12, 2009, 08:21:43 AM » |
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ty, so i just need to buy a connectivity kit that supports USB and then i can flash the lite on?
Regards
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neonpolaris
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« Reply #787 on: January 12, 2009, 09:08:34 AM » |
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If you're talking about using a laptop to flash, aside from usb I believe you'd also need an eSATA card for it (or a laptop with an eSATA port already).
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ZaVaRKa
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« Reply #788 on: January 23, 2009, 12:35:31 PM » |
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This is how it worked with me, need to change TxD with RxD, also I found alternative solder points. If kill the #1 pads with thick wire, use slim wire to alternative #2 pads.  Do you know an alternative pad for r709 line (open/close) i have crashed the resister and the additional pad too xD xS Thx sry for my bad english |
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gigabite
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« Reply #789 on: January 23, 2009, 07:37:18 PM » |
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^^ easy peasy -  connect the blue to the blue - put a 100Ohm resistor in the middle (yellow), if you mean you wrecked the pad next to TX as well then I think there is a via on the back but I have no pictures hope that helps... gigabite |
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 .ISO - he's a wannabe ... feel part of "t3h sc33n" yet ? QQ coming 2009  |
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ZaVaRKa
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« Reply #790 on: January 24, 2009, 10:45:33 AM » |
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^^ easy peasy - connect the blue to the blue - put a 100Ohm resistor in the middle (yellow), if you mean you wrecked the pad next to TX as well then I think there is a via on the back but I have no pictures hope that helps... gigabite thx for your answer but i also crashed the additional pad Here some pictures.. Do you know an extra additional pad for r709 (open/close) thx    On the last picture you can see how i soldred the additional pad. (but its not working) |
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« Last Edit: January 24, 2009, 10:49:26 AM by ZaVaRKa »
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Gee99x
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« Reply #791 on: January 24, 2009, 11:09:02 AM » |
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No wonder you lifted the pads- you're using some heavy gauge wire there. Use thin wire to do this kind of work- like the wires used for the drive motor. or thinner.
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Arakon
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« Reply #792 on: January 24, 2009, 11:14:00 AM » |
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what the f***? do you always solder garden hoses instead of wires into your drives?
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I do NOT give support by email, PM, ICQ or whatever. Anyone annoying me that way will have his balls removed. With a rusty butterknife. Slowly. And I'll enjoy doing it.
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gigabite
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« Reply #793 on: January 24, 2009, 12:33:15 PM » |
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bahah XD ^^ this could still be repaired I think you should stop and send it to a professional
gigabite
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.ISO - he's a wannabe ... feel part of "t3h sc33n" yet ? QQ coming 2009 |
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jelle2503
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« Reply #794 on: January 27, 2009, 11:16:11 AM » |
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really mucked up lol, makes me wonder why you solder to something that'll end up having a broken 360 if not done correctly. very brave, but weird.
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fascistsirion
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« Reply #795 on: February 08, 2009, 04:55:57 PM » |
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Hi all.
I'm a bit confused. Have pretty much everything ready:
1. bought resistors from radioshack, 10k, 1k.
2. NPN transistor from radioshack
3. Ordered: eSata SATA IDE PCI Card VIA VT6421A off of ebay
Now I'm confused about the serial connection. My computer has a serial port on it (female). I can pull a female serial plug from an old modem to connect to the circuit. But now do I need a seperate cable to connect the two female serial connections? Can I just connect the circuit to a male serial plug and plug it directly in the back of my computer?
sorry if my terminology is off... not used to working with circuits.
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Arakon
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« Reply #796 on: February 08, 2009, 05:56:03 PM » |
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of course you can use a male plug.
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I do NOT give support by email, PM, ICQ or whatever. Anyone annoying me that way will have his balls removed. With a rusty butterknife. Slowly. And I'll enjoy doing it.
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diabloskeepe
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« Reply #797 on: February 12, 2009, 01:28:26 PM » |
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I had a few quick questions.
Since all we need to do is read the TX from the lite-on, if I am just probing R707 do I still need to solder the bridge above it? For that matter, if I need to do that, couldn't I just use the wire that I am using to probe to bridge that gap and read it from there?
I belive I currently have my bored set up correctly for the full method (the one that uses both an NPN and PNP) I have the female db9 connected with pin 2 and 5. To test if my set up was working correctly, I did the following.
I took a resistor and an led and put the resistor into the +5V and the other end to the LED. Then I connected what would be pin 2 to the female (which I believe is the input). The only time the LED goes off is when TX is connected to ground. If connected to +5v or to nothing, the led is on.
Is there any kind of program that I can get that will let me know if the COM port is actually receiving any data? When I try to pull the key from my Lite-on, I get all 0's for the key.
I could also tidy up my bread board and post pictures if you guys want/think that would help.
Thanks
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orios
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« Reply #798 on: April 23, 2009, 01:40:46 PM » |
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I' ve buy this Rs232 on ebay? Anybody have tryed if is functionally? I read identify.bin and inquiry.bin but, i can't receive from com port: It didn't work, sorry sega:54 I have try different time but dvdkey get me the same error. Another problem... i have make an error with kniting: I have corrupt R710 e R178  anibody have test the value of the resistance? |
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« Last Edit: April 23, 2009, 04:43:53 PM by Redline99 »
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Arakon
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« Reply #799 on: April 23, 2009, 02:32:28 PM » |
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both questions have been answered a $#!tload of times.
R710 is 100 ohm. the dongle works.
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I do NOT give support by email, PM, ICQ or whatever. Anyone annoying me that way will have his balls removed. With a rusty butterknife. Slowly. And I'll enjoy doing it.
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