Yeah, that fixed it.  Thanks arnezami.

Tried that, still crashes.  It loads fine with no CPU key and with a wrong CPU key (but obviously says key is bad).  When I set the correct key and try to open it, that's when it crashes.

I have a 4552 kernel system that I dumped using Tiros' Nandpro 2.0 (LPT dump).  I dumped the NAND twice , and both dumps had matching MD5 checksums.  What I did notice though was that these dumps had a block read error @ 300 though.



The dump opens up just fine with Flash Tool 88b without the cpu key.

I flashed the NAND with the Xenon hack to load Xell and this gave me the cpu key.  When I set Flash Tool to use the cpu key and 1BL key (and yes, it's the right 1BL key), then try to load the dump, Flash Tool crashes.

Here is my cpu key via Xell output: 000f343821ff9cee35aa7acc753648ed



I can upload the nand dump I made with nandpro, but I was unsure of the rules regarding linking to that.  If this is allowed, I can do that and you can try it for yourself.

I just wanted to know if Flash Tool has a problem with dumps from chips with bad blocks or some other explanation.  I do not know the DVD drive key for this system and this is preventing me from obtaining it.  Thanks.

Just correcting a typo in the tutorial, it should be:


(original had Unlock79)

Somebody please come up with an idea for this image.  It has to fit in somehow.

Here's a picture, courtesy of Team Modfreakz

http://www.freepler.de/userdaten/38928917/bilder/xbox360/78fk_1.jpg

Note: The resistors this guy is talking about are right in the middle of the three chips, right-center of the whole board.

Both are labeled 1R0 , and I confirmed this by looking at my 79 drive board.  1R0 = 1.0 ohm.

Does this mean you can bad-flash an MS28 (original firmware) now?  That was one thing I didn't like about it, if it was in MS28/FirmGuard mode, it just errors out without letting you do the VIA bad-flash method.

EDIT: Nope, just tried it, still can't bad-flash MS28 drives.

Well, I had a difficult time with a 79FL yesterday.  I dumped it externally with my Willem and loaded it into toolbox 4.



The first thing I notice is the drive / firmware version is all messed up, but I attributed that to it being a 79FL, and the program not working with these drives yet or something.

Deciding it's probably best to start off with a guaranteed clean copy, I loaded the 79-4b00.bin in the orig_fw folder included with toolbox.  Pasted my key, replaced key, then used smart hack patcher, and encrypted the firmware.  Programmed the chip and resoldered, and the drive ejected, everything looking good.  I put in a backup and got "to play this game put it in an Xbox 360" so I don't know if the key was wrong or the hacked firmware didn't work.  I don't have the system anymore (it wasn't mine ) but I still have the firmware I dumped from the chip if anybody wants to look at it, see if it was a bad dump or something.

Thanks caster420.

Sorry about the firwmare dump 
I guess I should have checked it first.

Hitachi/LG  GDR-H10N
Chipset: Panasonic MN103S94FDB
F/W Chip: MX29LV002NCBTC
firmware: 0D04 (still need to get a dump)

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Got mine today, Manufactured November 2006 , firmware version 0D04

Dumped fine using 360 Firmware Toolbox and Classic Dump.

http://www.360mods.net/files/gdr-h10n_0d04.rar

I'll post some pictures when I get a chance.

According to Team Modfreakz website there is, because I was on the site today and noticed he mentioned MS28A and MS28B.  So far though, every MS28 that I have flashed has been smooth.

I just wanted to post and say that I'm a huge supporter of this and definitely want to see something get done with this.  I'd love to be able to back up some Xbox 1 games to DVD.  I have about 50 blank DVD's right here and only a few DL's.

Anyways, the firmware detects the SS from a PSN, which is a certain length back from the layerbreak, correct?

Since a single layer DVD has no layerbreak, can we not just assume the end of the disc is the layerbreak or would that not work?

The ss extracted from an SDG-605B is different from an ss extracted using an Xbox 360 drive.  Think of it as being two "version" ss files for Xbox 1 discs.  An Xbox version ss will only work on the SDG-605B.  An Xbox 360 version ss is needed to play it on the Xbox 360.  So, you will have to extract the ISO using an Xbox 360 Samsung drive.

As for backing up the game, I already wrote a tutorial.

http://www.360mods.net/News/article/sid=29.html

Wouldn't it be "relatively" easy to make a firmware for the Samsung SD-616T?  The drive can be used just like an Xbox 1 drive. And using TheSpecialist's unlocker, you can rip Xbox 1 games for use with the Xbox 1 firmware hack.  A drive that already has the capability to rip Xbox 1 games, it shouldn't be too hard to modify it to read 360 games, should it?  It just seems like a worthy choice because the drive is still around (even in the US) and has a lot of firmware already out that you could use.  I could be completely wrong, but it's just a suggestion to at least look into that one.

Wow, this is an AWESOME update then.  Your last post should have been in the README    A lot easier to understand and really promotes the update.  I have a Samsung drive, but I should be getting a couple Hitachis to mod next week.  My onboard VIA 8237 worked with the first Slax disc while my VIA 6421L PCI card did not work with the Slax CD.  But since it does work with ATAPI devices, this new updated Slax disc should work with the VIA 6421 cards.  I know a lot of people who have purchased this card.  Hopefully somebody will test it out before I can, as I won't get a Hitachi to play with until next week.  Thanks again Protubus.

Does this offer any more compatibility for other SATA chipsets that did not work before, or is it just a more stable build with the same compatibility as the original?  From the improvements, I can see that the modeb cdb command is now integrated into the scsi driver and base image, but it doesn't mention any compatibility improvements.  Is there any way to improve on that or not?  Slax is wonderful, if it works with your chipset.  Only problem is the compatibility.

I've never heard of more than one version of the Slax CD.  The one linked in the pdf (rapidshare) works just fine for me.

Nice video.  Some suggestions: only the 6 screws, as mentioned previousley.  Also, use something thinner for the back clips, so you don't mark up the holes.  I use a thin flathead screwdriver, but I heard bobby pins work as well.

Also...boo on Xecuter kit.  2-wire-trick for the cheap people 

Try upgrading your SATA drivers to the latest version.