1 - Get yourself Party Drive Buffalo , it does miracle ... http://clkxu5.com/pb_final_maybe_no_clue.zip

2 - get your brand new formatted FatX 500g hdd , and your backup out of whatever case its in ( except usb3 ... ) and plug it directly into your computer with sata or usb3 for speed ...

3 - open party drive buffalo and select Drive Selector... your 500g should appear here ...

from there, you can extract or inject whatever you want in your 500g hdd formatted to fatx easily and at fulll speed ...

not as fast as transfert with ntfs or fat32 hdd but its the best that you will get

just bother with the Data partition, all saves and titles upd upates are in the Content and Cache Directory...

hope this help

1h since the update was released, every 360 news site was talking about what you exactly asked and updated it when they had info about that.

So what you ask day later , without EVEN looking at the ALREADY ANSWERED question and posting it here just to make another useless post since this was answered on every front page , just a waste of time and thus , responding with stupid answer...

But the correct answer would have been : GOOGLE IT BEFORE ASKING , maybe it was already answered ?

just by going there you would have been answered instantly

www.team-xecuter.com
www.xbox-scene.com
www.ps3crunch.net
xbox360.dashhacks.com
www.ixtreme.net

if you speak french too

www.logic-sunrise.com
www.gx-mod.com

and so on ...

because of that , we will all die sooner instead at the end of the year

... And it could trigger way ahead the future 2012 Event so beware

Yes I know very well what I did, i just put halo anniversary ( bundled with the 13146 update ) in the newly flashed 0272 LT3.0 to update the console and at the beginning it say it can't complete the update, cuz nornmally a slim with 12625 would not have a 0272 locked drive , so its stuck till I Unlock it with this sputnik pcb ( No , not the too pricy remplacement PCB at 70$+ shipping ) at 15$ to just unlock the drive and flash it back to stock to complete the update and then reflash it to 0272 LT3.0 and go on with my life ^^

just wanted to know if it was possible to not order and solder anything and just use my friend xKey to emulate the stock drive ^^ 

So just answering my question and telling me why it wouldn't work was very fine from the start

Anyway, thx for everything. You guys are very helpful and i'm learning everyday

Now, gotta continue Fragging with my XIM3 at Halo Reach some more ...

Feel free to join in

Gamertag : Narrow vYrus

All that work to finally in the end de-solder everything to log in to live ? no thank you

well, its my first time flashing a slim and i'm not good at all at soldering ...

my roommate does all the soldering and he's very busy  , yes its locked in lt3.0 and stuck in the update

the console is not mine also , so i will not risk myself at doing theses kinds of modifications ...

i did not even risk myself at glitching yet even though we jtagged alot of xenon and falcon !

anyway, the fastest things to do and the most clean method would be ordering a sputnick pcb in my own opinion ....

thx guy

PS : Still looking for someone to repairs all my 10-15 rrod xbox360 !

hi there

I've got a slim that was on the 12625 update and i opened it then extracted the key, and flashed it directly to lt 3.0 thinking that when i would update to 13146 it will update flawlessy ...

wrong !

now I don't have any other drive to get it back anyway

here are my optiosn that I thought of

1. Getting my friend xKey and set it with the OFW i first extracted from the slim then update it ?

2. getting a Sputnick 360 and unlock it ?

3. Setting it on fire and watch it burn

What do you think about the xKey solution ?

add my gamertags and i'll play with you through it

GamerTag : Narrow vYrus

cheer

Checked every point, diodes are working, current is going where it should be.

My jtag wiring is perfect, must be something else i'm sure of it ...

i left it alone for 2-3 weeks, then reflashed with the image that worked before ... It booted up ! but after 2-3 reboot , e79 again dammit ...

and like I said , i checked every point and every components of the jtag wiring are doing what they should before and after the 79 ...

Could it be a broken trace somewhere ? a shadowy 3rrod hiding around a chip ?

No bad block at all, and diodes for the setup...

tried rebuilding nand with donor and stuff... still 0022 code ...

Like the title said !

But i tried running the original nand.bin and with or without jtag soldered or not, give me a 3RRoD and 00222 secondary codes...

last time it lasted 1 day only and e79, i reflashed and worked fine for that week ... then always give me E79 with Freeboot 13599 , 13146 ... didn't tried lower ...

I'm getting out of ideas ! A little help would be greatly appreciated

thx in advance

okay i'll try the original diodes setup for this ....

but for one .. my friend when attempting to redo the jtag wiring ... saw untrustworthy resistance under the gpu ... when he touched it , it came off !! damn ... if somebody can help me with this ... i'll check which one are loose and repost here

sorry for my english i'm good at it but not perfectly bilingual ...

what you mean by wiring is the wire itself or the method like the transistors, diodes or the old 330k resistance ...

for the method , like I said , it's the transistors method using 2 transistors and resistance and using the aud_clamp on this website

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=719652

for the wires, i'm using what's written on this website so kynar wires ...

every xenon I did using this method is working very fine ... it seems it only plague falcon ... but wait my 360 xenon is doing the exact same thing ... but worked for almost 3 months ... before doing that ...

alright , here is my problem... jtagged 3 falcon with the transistors method and flashed them to freeboot 12623 ...

worked fine here , then my friend took them to their place and now show e79 ... don't know why but i reflashed them to original.bin and worked perfectly ... redid the wiring and still e79 ... but flashing back the orig.bin works ...

what seems to be the problem ? i buyed new transistors with metal covering them that cost 1$ each and am trying now to redo the soldering if it will change something...

any help would be very appreciated...

I updated my xenon with freeboot 12611 and did the avatar update ... no issues !

and "Kinected" my kinect to my xbox without a hassle and played dance central till my body couldn't take it anymore without removing the resistor ...

It's safe, but just to be safe remove it anyway but you can update without a hassle

you should be able to flash the xell xenon hack and boot it to get your cpu key right ?

But anyway, send the nand anyway, I do miracles with theses things

I was talking about the nand file

It could be too that the modchip need to be flashed to support the G partitions

I did 2 xbox with 500gigs hdd in them and flashed x2.5035 and wasn't able to see the G partiton ...

Flashed the x2.5035+137 and here it was

But on 1.6 xbox softmod you don't need that ...

for the spare nand , i got plenty ... i jtagged 10 xenon and 1 falcon , so of course i've got spare nand

Tried 3 nand already ... same problem ...

But I thought that the command to erase was nandpro usb: -e16 0x000000 ...

I'll try yours

and it began making this progressive E79 when the console was fully closed like a new xbox you buy at the store ... just opened it when it was impossible to boot with it

and I'm sure the jtag is soldered correctly because when I flash back the orig.bin , it just stay green and doesn't boot so ... I know that when jtag is in place, orig.bin shouldn't work right ...

SHOULD I TAKE A PICTURE OF IT ??

And then ...


Did flash the nand with XBR like dantheman said ... E79

I replaced the jumper with a 1k resistor like l_oliveira said .. E79

Flashed freeboot, xbr , orig.bin with or without 1k resistor ... E79

Like nicnull said ... maybe it's a flaky solder under the jtag points causing this I don't know ... this xenon never ever rroded , so I'll be obligated to send it to a professional reflower ... Didn't want to come to this ^^

I didn't try the southbridge x-clamp-fix yet ... Is It Worthwhile or am I just wasting my time ?

thx