I think I could use some help, I've read this thread many times but I don't see what I could have missed here.
I'm trying to RGH a buddy's slim but can't get past the CPLD programming part.
- white chinese glitch chip for slims
- LPT JTAG programmer built according to GliGli's schematics (using 15cm cables, 3 1N4148 mini-melf diodes [black stripe on the CPLD, NOT LPT side], 1 1206 220Ohm resistor and 4 0603 3.3k resistors)
- Trinity on 12625
- Intel D945GCLF2 mobo with LPT1 @ 0x378
I'm not sure whether the CPLD is programmed yet, according to some posts here and in the DX forums it is, however other people in the same forums claim it's not.
So I figured I'd rather program it first.
Now I have already installed the chip in the console, meaning 3V3 and GND are already connected (confirmed with multimeter at J1/J2 and VCC/GND of JTAG port); the console is connected to a power outlet and the readings say 3.3V.
I've already flashed XeLL built with MultiBuilder 0.5 (old, I know, upgraded to 0.93 by now - and yes, I did dump the NAND beforehand and checked my 3 dumps were identical).
The console turns on but keeps hanging at a green light (which is what I would have expected from an empty chip, no glitching within 5 minutes, tried 5 times).
As for the LPT port, in the BIOS I have 4 possible modes ("Output only", "Bi-directional", "EPP" and "ECP") which all give identical results concerning the CPLD, JTAG Cable and the error message from 360gcProg v1.4.
If I solder the chip in according to the official slim diagrams on the manufacturer's site (with 50cm CPU_RST "fix") but do NOT connect the "slim" bridge (between D1A and C5) I get "TDO stuck at 1".
It says "TDO stuck at 1" too if the programmer is not connected to the LPT port, so I guess that's the default "nothing there" error message.
If I do bridge the "slim" points I get a message saying the CPLD was not powered correctly and to check the wiring, however I've done that quite a few times now.
I've also measured the voltage between LPT port pin 1 and pin 18, it's 5.02V, so afaik it should work with the normal LPT JTAG programmer.
As I said I've also tried switching the LPT port modes in the BIOS, no matter what I set I get the above error message (not powered correctly, check wiring; I forgot the exact wording).
Then I've read Xumpy's post about bridging R2 or R3; I've tried bridging R2, bridging R3 and bridging R2 and R3 (not together, separate) but the error message always stays the same.
I think I'll try programming with Xilinx Impact next as that's the only thing I could still imagine being the problem.
Also note I've already hot-glued the chip to the xbox so I'd like to keep it in there if possible, though I might have to change the wiring to take CPU_RST and POST_OUT1 to the top.
Some pictures (click to enlarge; blue wires go to NAND programmer, yellow wires to glitch chip, colorful wires to LPT JTAG CPLD programmer):
Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
EDIT: Holy $#!t, turns out I had more luck than brains today: the CHIP IS INDEED PRE-PROGRAMMED!
Bought from DX around 2-3 months ago.
I thought - why not give it another try, as I don't seem to be too lucky with that LPT JTAG Programmer (desoldered that and the bridges at R2 and R3, kept the "slim" bridge). And f*** me, after 20 seconds my display was tinted in blue.
If someone happens to find the problem with my programmer (?) I'd still appreciate that for the future but at least my buddy's gonna be happy now
P.S.: If anyone wonders why I said it wouldn't glitch before - well, that's what I had thought; now that I think about it it comes to mind that my buddy was over here yesterday and I soldered all of the stuff then. We were drinking and watching old music vids, so I switched to the PC via HDMI switch; and when I switched back to check, obviously the console must have rebooted (as it usually does when losing and then gaining HDMI connectivity again); that's why I thought it didn't work. Shouldn't drink heavily while trying to glitch, even though the soldering does seem ok in retrospect so at least there's that
While I'm at it... my buddy says thanks to gligli, Tiros, cjack, Redline99, arnezami, tmbinc (who is sorely missed in the 360 scene, see you when Durango hits...) and all the others who made this possible.
EDIT2: In the meantime I had a chance to build a 14719 RGH image with MultiBuilder 0.93; I flashed it to the console, read it back, found no differences, put the xbox back together and voila - always (at least so far) boots within 10-30 seconds.
I'm tempted to call bull$#!t on the "can't put in metal cage, screws up RGH" and "you need do try 50 different caps" stories... the thin wires I used worked just fine and I was able to screw everything back together witout any problems; no cap change either, only used the 50cm CPU_RST wire (didn't feel like playing around with that so maybe that's unnecessary as well).
EDIT3: After 15 boots times have varied between 10 seconds and 2 minutes 10 seconds, 10 of those times it was below 30 seconds.