reflowed the hana on both consoles, no luck

assumed it blew a resistor or something inside the connector block.

took the shielding off the avport, but would have had to pretty much destroy it to remove it to see what was blown.

too much work for me with limited tools here at home

didnt, replaced the cable, and switched to the old component cable for the av output

sold the jtag that had the hdmi port blew.

drivers have only ever been an issue for me whilst flashing drives.

never once has my manboard sata refused to work with hddhackr

and i was referring to the modelled hdd caddy shown on xbox-scene with this news post not the "free" software for the usb to sata converter thats costs £40.

ive been a fan of team X since day one, bought many many of their products

even though i knew 80% could be made at home, i enjoyed the simplicity of them

this however is the most pointless POS ive seen them put out yet, next to the blaster360.

its one thing to make life easier when needed, and another to make money when it couldnt get any easier.

average

anyone can cut a square window and add in LED fans

is that a sticker or an airbrushed picture?

a bad hdmi cable took out the hdmi port on 2 of my consoles.

first the screeen went pink, then on/off intermittently

then the ports on the consoles stopped givingout any signal.

original av portworks fine.

check your cable or replace it.

it will reflash your fw, so if you have a spoofed drive, it will overwrite some of the original dvd rom fw over the spoofed fw and probably fubar the drive.

you can just put a small connector block used on old IDE drives to select master/slave right onto the dvd drive power header bridging pins 4 and 6 i believe

best to check b4 you do it obviously

wont help you if you have somehow badgered the trace.

repair the trace and then do the trick above.

problem defo lies with bad blocks

FYI blocks are remapped to 3FF for a 16mb, then backwards for rest eg 3FF, 3FE, 3FD etc

flash360 DOES NOT handle bad blocks correctly and will corrupt the nand forcing a rewrite over USB/LPT.

create a bootable usb pen and put 16bit versions dosflash, l-o-eras.exe onto it as well as your hacked fw

boot into dos

run dosflash to find port address of drive write it down

then exit out, and run l-o-erase.exe on the port attached to the drive. this will get you the correct status to flash the chip 0x72.

power cycle the drive

dosflash will show the device with a 0kb free space, then use the l-o-erase command within dosflash to erase the chip

then finally run dosflash again and you will see the flash has 256kb free space and you will then be able to write the cfw.

on the latest retail dash 12625 you can dump and write a hacked fw using the method above.

the new beta dash overwrites a new fw to the dvd drive that has not been hacked yet.

stay away from the beta, and dont update until a cfw is available that is live safe (if it ever comes)

need to do an l-o-erase on the drive, then an erase followed by a flash

not normally required, but will solve your issue.

MAKE SURE THE KEY IS CORRECT BEFORE YOU DO!!

you cant 'mess with' a NAND image without the CPU key,so it must have been jtagged at some point.

follow l_oliveira's advise and replace it, as your one will prob be banned

you could solder a thin wire (AWG 25/30) to the pins on the connector block attached to tne PCB at each end that the cable plugs into and route it along side the ribbon cable.

havent seen the connectors to say if its feasible, just an idea.

hint: hddhackr

i dont think any disc based scheme will ever stop backups from booting, it will be a cat and mouse game where ms updates the ap data, then the scene rip them and add to iso's.

if m$ decide to hash the fw with the cpu key then backups will be stopped for all new consoles,and any un-dumped drives.

lots of people mistakingly believe linux is still a command line app...

i very much doubt M$ would code the new dash to flash the drive on every single boot, would be suicide.

I'm guessing that if the slim detects a modified fw, it will then rewrite a clean OFW onto the drive, and ban the console.

heres a pic of mine, a simple modified CK3 probe, and SP switch on the CK3 power cable.

cheap, nasty and oh so good!!



Cap was taken from a dead 360 mobo located close to the GPU heatsink

Capacitor specs: 820uF 4.5V



pic was taken before i added the switch to the 3.3v line.

easy to make, knock off all the SMD components with a soldering iron, and solder the cap in like my pic.

hot glued the cap after it was all soldered so its tough and durable.

considering adding in a push to break switch on my next version of it, linked to the 3.3V line in the CK3 power cable.

kinda miss the satisfaction of a successful MRA dump tho!!

Edit: should the switch not be on the 3.3V line supplying the drive and not the probe, as your guide seems to show?

my switch is on the blue connector between drive and CK3, doesnt tie into the circuit for the probe AT ALL.

Edit 2: seems like your switch on the probe is for turning the probe on/off (for whatever reason!)

I found that my probe errored out during the dump as i was using the CK3 to power cycle the drive, then i added the switch to the 3.3v line and it worked after that. does your setup work using the power kit switch to power cycle the drive on the last 5 sec pause? Mine didnt until i added the switch.

personally i wouldnt do it manually quite easy to compile a freeboot image with new dashlaunch files then use 360nandflash to update the whole lot.

flash360 is wick dont use it if you have bad blocks, it doesnt manage them correctly.