hi

to be honest my drive went through after about 6 hours trying!

things i did were to disabled driver signatire checks in Win 7, and i also liteon erased the drive a few times in JF

i was told by cory that you need the drive to be erased correctly before it will go to 0x72 status on powerup, it was only when i got the drive to that state and after disabling the driver enforcement thing when the 9504 OFW went through.

then i used slim unlock to get to 0x72 and didnt need the switch to erase and write 1.9LT

all i can say is keep trying, you will get it eventually.

the drive has not been flashed correctly with dosflash, there is an authentication process that JF does that i believe is required to put the drive in a working state that dosflash does not do.

you need to completely erase the drive so that it gives vendor mode 0x72 on each intro then the flash will go through

try a different PC with sata see if you can get better results

if you are getting drive spi status 0x0 the mod is doing its job, the issue is with the PC

I used the OFW found in the LT1.9 release pack and simply spoofed my key in, do the same for yours.

just watched the youtube vid, need balls of steel to do that mod lmao

steady hand and patience looks to be the key

Many thanks for your continued efforts in the scene in face of all the hate that is directed at you and your team for choosing to fly your own flag.

much respect

according to reports, the new CFW wil not require the AP2.5 discs to be repatched with new data

so has c4e found a way to bypass the checks alltogether?

hi guys thought id share my little switch design for the slim liteon unlock for MXIC chipsets

very cheap and easy to install, for the people like me who like to do it themselves

what you need:

• slim liteon drive 0272 with locked SPI and MXIC chipset (IMPORTANT!! does not work on winbond drives)
• sub-mini SPDT switch - link http://www.maplin.co.uk/single-pole-sub-miniature-2476
• thin wire - i used 20 AWG
• resistor - 10-12 ohms, pull through type 1/4W
• hot glue gun and glue
• soldering iron - i used 30W
• scalpel or small tipped screwdriver to cut and prepare traces
• dremel or drill with 12mm drill to cut drive case for easy access to switch

WIRING DIAGRAM



traces cut, and wires installed, wires are aprox 5cm long, cut them to suit the position of the switch which you will see below



then you solder the resistor to one outer leg of the SPDT switch, as shown above, then the other two wires are soldered on being careful to get them correct!! (measure twice cut once!!)

cover all of this in insulation tape or liquid insulator (very cool stuff!!)

then on the underside of the dvd drive chassis, you will see a channel below the PCB that routes the drive motor cables etc, which is safe from the moving parts of the drive assembly and which is also a perfect spot for the switch.

Fire up your hot glue gun and put a big blob in the corner, and set the switch in making sure the switch is almost level with the metal case, just shy of it. (also good idea to test the circuit before you glue it in)



lastly, measure the switch location relative to the screw hole for the case nearby and transfer this to the drive case and use your drill or dremel to make a hole above the switch that will allow you to flip it without having to remove the drive case (timesaver!! as i think we will be seeing a lot of new CFW in the future with AP2.6)

hopefully this is clear and easy to follow!!

with the sputnik360 and tridentMX you are required to remove the drive case to flick the switch/place the probe, and with mine all you have to do is flip the drive over and move the switch!

have fun modding your locked drives guys!! cat and mouse games are fun!!

not bashing TX/Maximus products, i love them all and own most of them, but sometimes the whole fun is in doing it yourself!!

big thanks to the actual hackers and devs working on these brilliant mods - they deserve all the credits, this is just my small contribution to the mod.

can the unlocked state be a flag to m$ in future updates?

i would guess so

are the CDB commands known (from JTAG reversal of the update application?

can we send the command after we write our CFW?

success!!

kept erasing the drive as much as i could, kept getting wierd chip and vendor ids then switched to onboard sata

unlocked the drive with russian tool

erased drive with switch still closed

power cycled drive with switch open (normal circuit)

intro'd and got 0x72 with power cycle

flashed OFW 9504 to drive and it went through

then slim unlocked it and wrote LT1.9

drive is alive again and booting backups beautifully

seems my via 6421 setup is still buggy even after drivers removed and driver signing removed.

thanks for all the input guys great advice!!

is my drive still unlocked? let flashed over 9504 without needing theunlock tool, is this normal?

the xbox started with no updates required so the drive wasnt flashed again.

thanks for the input guys

glaze83- i have a SPDT switch attached so i can switch between normal circuit and ground with resistor diagram below



i move the switch to position 1 to unlock the drive, which seems to work fine, then if i switch it back to 0, JF locks up, then if i check the port with the russian tool it says drive is no longer in vendor mode.

if i switch the resistor to normal circuit before or during the write it hangs until i switch it back then it continues on.

l_oliveira- i have not redone the PCB, as i assumed the SPDT switch would give me a homemade unlock, which i have glued into the chassis of the drive. would the length of the wires to the switch (approx 5cm) be causing the error? i thought the resistor was only to set the SPI to 0x0, and was not a factor in the flashing part.

phonsey - i will try to flash the OFW i have back to the drive, (its 0272 unlocked last update before 13599) any advice on how i do this from a bricked state? do you use dosflash16 or dosflash32? does the drive still need the SPI set to 0x0 with the russian tool to write the OFW back when i get the 0x72 using PMT on MXC01 point?

need a bit of guidance here hopefully someone can help

trying to write to 9504 updated to 0272 (13599 dash) with locked SPI, chip MT1335WE 1013-BLSL

using VIA 6421 PCI card with drivers removed, win7

dumped drive info fine before the SPI lock, no errors etc

chip reports as MXIC in JF as below (not winbond)



have cut trace, soldered 10 ohm resistor and switch to points required

can get drive into vendor mode ox72 ok, and russian tool sets SPI register to 0x0, and reports the drive as unlocked.



drive can be erased no problems, but when i write it displays writing to banks ok, but when it tries to verify it hangs and errors out



then the drive is dead and giving 0xF2, and then i have to do the liteon restore trick using MXP01 and PMT probe to get vendor mode status 0x72 again

what is making JF fail the verify?

ive tried flipping the switch back to orig position after the unlock, but it locks the drive again and all erasing/writing functions stall.

ive read on x-s some guy says to hit slimunlock once you get it unlocked, but JF errors out saying drive is in vendor mode, aborting.

very frustrating!!

anyone else had this problem?

Apparently c4eva has 'beaten' AP2.6 challenges that were introduced in the last update.

http://twitter.com/#!/teamjungle

I was not aware that the AP scheme was revised to 2.6. didnt see any info on it, anyone got any links?

awesome video!! I want one!!

dude this thread is ancient (5yrs old), and so is the app!!

google jungleflasher and read the tutorial to flash a samsung

funny they 2RROD'd when inside the chassis and also when completely stripped, and only booted if there was pressure on the RAM chips.

when the RAM chips were reflowed the consoles booted again, and have done so to this day (friends consoles that only i mod/fix)

I acknowledge the fact that removing the mobo is enough to cause RROD, but this was not the case for these two particular boxes.

the RAM chips were defo badly soldered to the board, and had to be reflowed to work correctly.

how are you reflowing the console? sounds like you are overheating it, which is complete bollox as it doesnt get anywhere near hot enough no matter how long you run it to melt the solder between the GPU and mobo.

you have most likely only crushed the connections together with either the heat or replacement of the xclamps that obiously didnt last long (4 months is a poor repair time TBH)

you need to reflow the GPU correctly with the proper equipment, you wont fix it using amateur methods.

or as i said send it off to be reballed with leaded BGA balls, which is the best fix available, but ive heard reports of some failing again after this repair also.

lastly, you got flamed by q36 for your trash talk, no1 wants to hear you rant about m$, this forum is meant to be about hacking the xbox to obtain homebrew, not a bitchfest about m$'s poor console design (which we are all very much aware of without your ramblings) or how someone cant fix a problem with crap methods.

laugh away, ive fixed two consoles with purely RAM issues, didnt touch the GPU at all. Just coz you havent seen it doesnt mean that it cant happen, thats a bit presumptious and arrogant TBH.

the two consoles ive repaired have yet to 2RROD again since i done the reflow.

ive done enough consoles to know how to apply thermal paste and the heatsinks correctly, trust me that is not the issue.

badly installed paste/heatsinks 2RROD slowly as the heat builds up.

RAM BGA problems 2RROD as soon as you boot it up with fans at maximum speed straight away.

classic RROD symptom

reflow the GPU correctly for better results which will ultimately fail again

get the GPU reballed for maximum life expectancy.

update your console to the latest kernal with the drive untouched, then flash the drive after you have done the unlock mod

pointless flashing it first, the update will overwrite the CFW with the new OFW anyway.

The probability of a dvd rom dying for no reason in an untouched console is close to zero, and not worth considering TBH

check your XVAL and see what is says but as Tiros has confirmed it has been proven by others, and you cant ask for a better opinion than his.

the winbond can be done with a 5 ohm resistor AFAIK

god bless those russians!!

i'd bet my hat that Team X knew about this, and kept it under thier hat, to ensure that their PCB had good sales before they released the 'free' version.

cant wait to get home to try this!!