try moving the files with xplorer360 on PC? long shot!!

i have the official dongle and have no issues whatsoever with all 4 of my HDMI input devices, 2 x LCD tv, projector, PC screen

perhaps buy an official one?

look forward to seeing your results agree with the laws of physics!

seriously if you think you have a special xbox that defies the laws of science id love some of what you are smoking!!

the kits i get from ebay are £1 a kit delivered (£11.99 for 12 kits)

cheapest i could find, and also cheaper than buying the parts seperately from other sellers.

most likely a dirty/worn laser

much easier to replace than inserting new drive.

FYI the drives are married to the mobo with a unique key you have to dump it from old drive and insert it into new one

TBH you are most likely to kill both drives attempting this, i would advise you to put a new laser in your old drive and be done with it.

if your new drive is the same type as old drive you can use the laser from it.

sounds as if the 360 mobo itself is damaged with the behaviour with another drive attached.

is dumping the NAND etc actually worth it whenever even if you get dvd key the mobo is damaged beyond use?

not sure if a soutbridge chip can be swapped between motherboard most probably can, but a lot of work involved either way.

i'm getting really tired of this LT bull$#!t.

i get me RROD kits off ebay

people sell the screws etc in bulk saving a bit of cash against the other kits that are the same $#!t only more expensive.

it may help others with a similar issue if you explain how you sorted it instead of coming on and hitting us with a one liner saying sorted.

that really pisses me off lol

try hooking everything up whilst the console is off.

if you plug the dongle in while its on it thinks you are changing outputs and does a soft reboot

why not send it to some1 to do instead of looking for 6 months?

and also come on man, a google search throws up hundreds of links to all the info you need, explaining all of the working of drive flashing

hell the whole process is covered in great detail on both this forum and x-scene

your problem is that you want the whole lot put in your hands, and if its not, then you go off on one.

lots of luck getting any help on here with that attitude.

heres a start for you

google jungleflasher

then read!!

what drive is it?

revert to the old methods of dumping/flashing the drive and examining fw

google fwtoolbox and it will give you correct info

i upgraded from 15W to 30W and noticed i had to be a hell of a lot more careful or i started lifting tracks etc

id suggest the same as jelle and buy a lower rated iron 45W is far to high for a novice to use.

i agree that adding an extra fan would be a much better idea than moving the heatsink.

removing the shroud is even worse i had not realised that it had been done in that mod i assumed it had been altered.

tbh the best cooling mod is to opearte the xbox in a clean room in the open, not inside a cabinet or in a kitchen drawer (yes kitchen drawer!! i know a guy who does this)

m$ have invested pretty heavily in their flawed design and tbh i think its the best of a bad situation

do xclamp mod, stick a whisper fan in and be done with it. thats all i do for mine.

hi grandpa welcome to xh!!

dos can be ran from bootable USB on most modern machines that support USB booting

google HP USB format utility and install, look for win98 boot disc and extract to folder on desktop

insert USB pen, fire up HP format app and choose to format the USB and make it bootable then point it to the win98 dir you made b4

it will create a bootable pen for you.

drop all files needed for hddhackr onto it

boot computer and choose boot options or set the pc to boot to USB in bios

you will have dos!!

dos does not need drivers so forget about it, thought an old schooler like you would have known that.

the bin files for the drives are copyright and no1 will give you them or post any links but if you use google you will find them.

tuts for hddhackr are also on the forums

then id suggest finding some1 who can solder to do the next one for you no offence!!

im telling you now there is no way that the heatsink has any benefit in the new position regardless of air flow.

the difference in temperature of locations far outweighs the extra airflow which in fact is very minimal if any at all.

in fact there is more air flowing over the GPU extra heatsink in the original position than in the new one so your argument is invalid.

you own diagrams and pictures you post quite often also contradict your statement. the maximum air flow happens through the CPU not the GPU, your own diagrams prove that.

do the maths and see. a 15 degree difference in temps has a factor of 15 in the sums, the airflow difference would never be as much as 15 kg/s you will find the airflow is a very small amount less than 1kg/s for the whole lot.

the laws of thermodynamics do not lie!!

dont try to argue with something you have no understanding of.

accept the mod is not what you all expect it to be it will not cool your GPU any more in fact it will reduce the cooling.

also the 'liquid' you mention in the heatpipe is not a liquid its a fluid which can apply to a liquid or gas, and you will find that there is an inert gas inside the heatpipe, not a liquid.

i may not know the inside out of electronics but you can bet i know all there is to know about this topic.

also to HB for the airflow to pass through the fan it would have to push the fan faster, using energy, and believe me the air will leak out an unobstructed path long before it puts energy into the fan.

expose copper

flux and tin with solder

slide wire into molten solder flat on mobo not end on

let cool and tape over

not to piss on any1's parade but the flipped GPU heatsink actually is a bad idea, as moving it from the front of the CPU heatsink to behind it actually lowers the amount of heat drawn from it as it is much warmer air passing over it in the new location than the older one.

heat transfer 101 for the non technical people

q=mc(t1-t2)

where

q = heat
m = mass flow rate of air
c = heat capacitance of air
t1 = temp of heatsink
t2 - temp of air heatsink is in

the closer t1 and t2 are, the less heat is drawn from the heatsink, and the bigger the difference the more is extracted.

in the original position, the extra GPU heatsink actually lowers the amount of heat removed from the CPU, as it heats the air before it hits the CPU heatsink.

that is why m$ put it there!! the CPU heatsink is more than capable of removing the heat from the CPU hence why m$ added the heatsink there, as they knew they could squeeze a few more kw of heat extraction without overloading the CPU heatsink and causing it to overheat.

do you not think m$ spent a bit of time and money researching this? do you think they put it there for $#!ts and giggles? they would have set up thermal models in 3D CAD for this - trust me ive seen it done and have done it myself before.

as i said, top marks for the workmanship of moving the thing, but you may as well have just stuck on an old heatsink with no extra heatsink as your one is now doing very little.

putting extra fans blowing air in is also not much use as you will force the air to pass back out through the rest of the case - not over the heatsinks as the stock fans will only pull the same amount of air over them no matter what air is being forced into the case. air will always follow the path of least resistance, so the extra air will leak out of the case rather than push the stock fan faster.

and before any1 asks how the hell do you know any of this? my degree in mechanical engineering says so, and also i design large scale air handling units which basically heat air through copper fins - the opposite of the cooling process of the 360.

no you dont know its worked/will work until you 1st dump the nand and look at it in 360flashtool.

then once you know its exploitable you can perform the hack

and then you wont know if its flashed correctly until you boot into XBR/freeboot.