to use a probing method you either need a connectivity kit or another set of hands.

in your post u mentioned buying a new 360 w/ hitachi, don't worry, new ones are all liteon's anyway.

u need to use smaller wire and less solder.  make your wire the exact length and shape as my picture.  if you still need to dump the drive,  attach the resistor to some wire and your grounding point by the power jack and omit the switch if you have an extractor pro or ck3 to power the drive and probe 122 to intro (or use a switch if you are using 360 for power).

obviously this is a problem you will need a professional to fix.

jungleflasher saves all the keys you read.  open jf and press Ctrl + F12 key

if all that is fooked is 122, you should be able to dump the drive using mra/boxxdr method (122 missing is the same as the line being cut for the hack), then when u are done, move one end of the 3.3 jumper (doesn't matter which one) to the trace 122 was on and the drive should work.

sorry, that reply was how to fix when done, take a pic of what u have now and show us.

vcc also works though, u just intro then power cycle the drive.  no need for half open on benq ever.

jump from the pad 122 trace to the trace pad 101 is touching.

unless it had an old version of ixtreme, there is no need to open half tray.  even on those i think u can just intro and power cycle.

did you try jungleflasher and the benq unlock button?  i have yet to see a drive that didn't work on.
http://jungleflasher.net/files/JungleFlasher.pdf

i think a lot of people will finally have their ah ha moment if we pulled a controller chip, took a photo of the circuitry under it and photoshopped it on the reverse side of the board so they would understand that all these jumper wires is just a way of re creating the pcb from the other side.

they have 99% of the info they need in page one (90% in post 1) and still ask the same exact question over and over. 

hell no, check page one of thread, that is when i retired.  they could change the name of the op and no one would ever even know.

that is not the problem, he lifted 101 and it looks like the trace patch job there is botched.  rejoin that trace that is severed in half and then put the 3.3 jumper line back in place and your drive should work so long as u didn't fry anything out.

lol dream, 90% of your post are in this thread, huh?

i just use a vampire + xtractor pro.  i was noticing though that the pro has a grd pad and a 3.3 pad that one could just solder wire and the resistor to, maybe glue to an old credit card and bam, home made vampire.  next time i'm in a pinch though and vampire won't work for what ever reason (has happened b4), i will give it a try.

is there a reason u like to jump on the resistor side the board?  easier?

u need to reattach 101 either by rejoining it to its trace, or jumping that trace to the other 3.3 line (same as the jumper wire in the mra hack)

ixtreme lt doesn't support spoofing.  use the repair he showed you or get a new liteon ($30 at fleabay).