rly?

you can actually use the same repair as the one i just posted (minus the stuff you didn't break that he did), but it sounds like you preserved pads 101 and 122, you you can probe them instead of having to probe the resistor i pointed out.

the red lines in the top picure are what you have to solder on the bottom of the board.  on the second picture, the black lines are what you have to solder and the arrow points out where you have to probe while intro'ing.  on the top right hand side of  the top of the board is 3 lines of solder you can ground your resistor to.  if you are using the 360 for power, instead of probing the resistor, just solder to it and cut the line after you get status x72.

refer to post #21, get one like that, prolly the cheapest option for just doing this.

much better, i'm tied up atm, but will upload a good picute of what you have to make happen, do you have a small heat gun to remove epoxy from the controller chip?

what about the ones in the red circle?

let me find the pic, its in here somewhere.  the picture is kinda blurry, can you use ms paint and put a black x over all the lifted pads?
also, with 101 and 122 gone u will have to probe a resistor that is usually under epoxy, do u have a heat gun?

the fix is something like this (i think u may have one other wire to solder than this pic), it involves soldering to teh smallest resistors on the board after you remove the epoxy from above them using a small heat gun.  be careful not to get to hot while taking the epoxy off, u don't wanna take the resistors too.

pm sent.

do you want us to do it or show you how?  also, do you have great soldering skills?

if at all possible to take a picture, it will make this much easier.  w/o a picture, i can make assumptions that may or may not work.

thanks for the info, i don't bubble gum fix either, i just wanted to know because this gives me more points on both sides the board i can use to patch connections.  i have enough dead liteon drives laying around that i just replace the damaged pcb's as i receive them.

looks like you did a lot of extra work, but i am glad that you got it going.

@dream, are those 0 ohm resistors and if so, can i just treat them like jumpers?
sorry if this is a noob question, but i am really just a pcb noob.

lt switch is garbage, use jumper wires and a resistor.  if you have a power supply for drives, no need for switch just probe w/ resistor, if not u just need to put a on off switch on the resistor line.  if 101 is trashed you can probe pad 122, the pad left of the other cut you made.

unless you are having disk read errors there is no need to update from liteon lt to lt 1.1.

if it were that easy to do, then we wouldn't be mra hacking 7-9xxx liteon drives, now would we?

now you're speakin my language, what country?

eryx666, you have a short. take a hi res picture of your pcb.

the soldering did look sloppy. one trick is to not solder the wires to the traces at a right angle.

when and how the drive shows up is irrelevant until after you intro the drive.  if it doesn't show up, hit intro on the port it should show up on and see what happens.

dream, i actually never have drive properties when i intro.  i don't even power my drive until after i start the intro, then when i turn the drive on it is instantly in vendor mode.  it does help though that i know what port to use.  that method will also prolly only work w/ a via card.