wow, me and a friend were both literally just looking for something like this.  is this for standard jtag wiring or does any of them use the aud clamp fix, specifically the zephyr image?

if it measures 0 resistance, then it has continuity.

the bad cap u found, was that causing the mystery mtk chip short or just not letting the board get x72?

awesome, so now i don't have to pay for live or replacing games?

it is salvageable.  are you able to do the repair work?  do you have a multimeter?

its probably not gonna happen w/ a probe 2, it is made to probe 101 which is gone.  remove the jumper from 122 and put it on the line below it, get a 22 ohm resistor and connect a wire to it and solder it to grd.  probe 122 when intro'ing.

the trace above via 101.  solder that to the via 122 trace and you are back in business.

pictures work for me.  you only need the smallest bit of exposed wire and you need to keep it tight and clean.  looks like one of your ribbon cable brackets caught on fire, gonna guess u need a new pcb.  if you have a friend that can solder, let them do this for you.

so you have any solder on the board?  if you are gtting 0, u either have a solder blob shorting out or your chip is fried.  you can fix a blob of solder.

if you are down w/ buying $#!t, get a multimeter, it will help you just as much as a good soldering iron.  not sure if a butane soldering iron will help you solder better, but i think u can use it for the epoxy if you are careful.  i use a rework station ($80) and it gets the epoxy to a perfect temp so it comes up and doesn't destroy anything.  it also has a great soldering iron w/ variable temps.

i'm pretty sure the fix for that pad is under the epoxy.  for the first spot, an easy alt that is on the same side of the board would be to jump that trace to the trace w/ 3 pads under the "11" in the top right of the picture.  are you capable of removing the epoxy or was you capabilities what got you in this fix in the first place?

if your traces are cut, it won't, just go through the steps as if it did.

solder a wire from c01 (box w/ 0 on it above the red x on top side of pcb) to the trace on the bottom side of board w/ the lifted pad.

then he should take a picture of what he has so we can trouble shoot it.

u do see it says drive is in vendor mode?

at least new liteon drives sell well on the open market.

you can probe via 101 or 122 (122 is left of the lower cut).
once you blow that point, your only hope is under some epoxy.


make sure you have no shorts.  take a picture of your board if at all possible before you turn it on again.  powering on while shorted can do permanent damage to your drive.

remove the 122 jumper and probe 122 w/ 22 ohm resistor.

yeah dream, was only a joke.  plz never take me serious or offensively.