check your e-mails mate

gigabite

ok if you want to get your fans working at 12v, on transistor D3A1 bridge the top leg (closest to the fan header) to the middle leg....as for getting it to work stock again I believe (iirc) you have to replace a mosfet but i'm not to sure which one it is

gigabite

So your saying the problem is with it not spinning the disk...take the whole drive apart, open the little part that the disk sits on...clean out all the stuff inside with some q-tips and alcohol then re-oil it put it all back together and you shouldn't have any problems

gigabite

http://www.google.com use it...or look here, words: rbjtech  x-clamp mod  12v fan

takes like 2 seconds to research

gigabite

I think mine and TMF's guide is better (i.e don't ever put a drill to PCB unless your bloody sure that it is your only option and you absolutely have to and there is no other possible way) http://www.freepler.de/userdaten/38928917/download/xbox360/fan_connecter_tutorial.pdf - Gazcoigne are you talking about the actual fan header or one you added on ??  You don't need to use 12v form the DVD drive there are many other places that have a safe and stable 12v (the dvd drive is NOT one of them)...also if you bridge points on the transistor right next to the fan header it will run your fan at 12v and fix it so you don't have to use external power

gigabite

no I know it works fine but I just like telling people to use mtkflash...I hate automated things IMHO - on a side note which VIA card do you have ? (is it a card or on board ?) make sure you using the middle port that's in the middle of the card as no other port will work (if your using a card which I assume you are) - the internal one not the external one

gigabite

your using iPrep that's what's wrong XD use Xtreme Boot Maker (36 version) and tick both options when making the custom mtkflash...the rest is here if it's not self explanatory

gigabite

you put it in the fridge....that was very dumb - let it go back to room temperature, after that make sure you have all the screws screwed in otherwise you will get 2 Red Lights due to bad ground.  If you have got all the screws screwed in then it's a cold solder joint (x-clamp mod and a re-flow will do the trick)

gigabite

What dash do you have...unless you connect it to LIVE you have a very high chance of NOT having the latest kernal (6717)...go here http://www.xboxhacker.net/index.php?topic=9414.msg65390#msg65390 download it and install it...you don't need a full new install of your kernal (what happens is you get your base kernal which comes in full then whatever update you get and install comes as a "patch" so it boots after your base kernal etc etc like BK > Patch 1 > Patch 2 and so on) and you don't need to downgrade and it's also quite useless

gigabite

Sony and TDK are ok...but I really would pay the extra like $1 (more or less exactly) and get Verbatims...they really are of much higher quality (you can compare, hold a verbatim in one hand and you other disk in another hand...Verbatim looks much thicker and has more weight to it then these other $#!tty disks seriously try it)

gigabite

go to your local $2 shop...get a packet of rubber hair ties (they basically look exactly like what you put on your braces if you have them).  Find the smallest and tightest one out of the whole bunch, replace it and wala (i'd also use some oil on certain parts of the drive i.e the rails of the tray etc) a working drive   or...you can spend countless hours researching it and come to the same conclusion.

gigabite

What media are you using ?  Did you touch the lens at all when you were installing the laser ?  Are all your cables in A+ condition not bent or damaged in any way ??

gigabite

^^ get it right the first time http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Case_Modding/Adv_Resistor_Calculator/

best resistor calculator ever seriously I use it all the time

gigabite

no...70 degrees (when the 360 shuts off...so it'd be below that if you did the "baking" trick) is not even close enough to melt any type of solder (or mix) in the world.  It merely heats up the board and flex it giving you a temporary fix.  0012 (and 2 red lights) means the GPU is overheating - which is why there is a delay between 3RL then it switches to 2RL when it heats up and gets to hot...double check you put everything on correctly and tight (and not to much thermal paste...a little bit more than 2 grains of rice is enough).  If you have then you most likely have a bad solder joint in which case you need a proper re-flow

gigabite

you really should not post your DVD key haha...i'd probably edit that

gigabite

omg absolutely no no and no !! Use a q-tip and alcohol yes, but never ever any of those DVD $#!t things they make the problems worse and can damage your laser (let me swipe across your laser a hundred times with a brush or something else at a very fast pace)

gigabite

yarrrr Arakon knows what he is talking about, BenQ's don't like +R's much and have a bit of trouble reading them (no matter what memory device you have or it's size) as was said by C4E.  There is proof of this with multiple games (for instance Test Drive Unlimited). Anywho...bye bye to the junkyard pirate

gigabite

2 words...shake...and bake - : P.... the "baking" trick does nothing, 0, nada, zip - all it does is heat the *board* and flex the *board*.  Let me ask, when your powering up the board - do you have any screws in ?  You must have ALL screws in (minus the 6 long case screws and the 3 at the front) otherwise you will get 2 red lights - it's NOT due to overheating it's due to bad ground !

gigabite

ICH9 chipset...you will need a VCC switch (requires cutting 2 traces) unless you picked up a PCI SATA card (with VIA chipset) for like $10 then you could easily go from there

gigabite

trust me...that capacitor there will not have any bad solder connections (it may look like it from the top but it doesn't...if you look around the whole board it's like this) - if your so scared and don't believe us...get a 25w soldering iron and some 60/40 solder and solder each end.  describe in detail what you have actually done to this board from day 1 *in this thread only* (and yes...my brother who also has a falcon, with cooling mods and he always warms it up before he plays like me (for 15 min minimum) got RRoD to...BUT...he didn't check the secondary error code because he doesn't know how to so it could have (most likely) just been a power issue or something else definitely un-related to bad joints) like Arakon said RRoD is generic...just because you get RRoD it doesn't mean you need to whip out the heatgun and your thermal paste.....................EDIT: 0020 well you most likely have a bad solder connection under the GPU or CPU (could be an SMD cap under the CPU or GPU and could also be caused if you don't have all screws in)

gigabite