Hey guys, just thought i'd let you know 0102 can be caused by a loose (or broken, or missing) SMD resistor under the CPU or GPU clamp. I have relised this (and developed a method for fixing) in the past couple of weeks of consoles i've had in.
TOOLS NEEDED:
25W Soldering Iron MAX
0.8 (or smaller) tip
Pyro Pen or "pencil torch"
60/40 Solder
Silicon (I use Selly's all clear - it's a general silicon - BE CAREFUL - some silicons have acids which will eat up the board)
Tweasers
General Tools for Opening the 360
Tape - Electrical
SMD resistor/s
FIXING: Clean up the area (usually the SMD resistor is still there) using a pyro pen carefully and don't focus in one area for to long otherwise your board will melt...you want to use the heat not the flame - you also just want to remove the resistor and/or clean up the area. Let it cool for around 3-4 min...Attach a small amount of 60/40 solder (with a very clean iron) to the cleaned up pads and get the pyro pen out again. Use the heat not the flame and the solder you have attached will start to reach liquidus (in other words, start melting) and form into two perfect sized re-done pads.
RE-ATTACHING: You can use any piece of electronic equipment (I use an Xbox 1 for my parts) that has SMD resistors of the same, shape, colour and size (not the best description)...melt some solder on the tip of your clean iron and with a pair of tweasers carefully pick up your SMD resistor. Just briefly touch it onto the fresh solder so it gets a small amount on one end, repeat for the other end. Now this is not for the un-skilled "look at me practice soldering on my 600 piece of hardware" person...pick your SMD resistor up with your tweasers and place it in the middle of the two pads, touch your soldering iron onto one of the pads carefully and also get the end of your resistor while holding the resistor in your tweasers (don't worry about how perfect it is yet just as long as you can get into a comfortable position to solder the other side your ok). Once you have done this carefully add a small amount of solder to the other end, then go back to the end you first started on and add a tiny bit more solder. Now get out your pyro pen once again and use the heat to carefully go over the smd resistor until it (what i like to call - you'll know when you see it yourself) sinks into/moves into it's proper position. NOW - at this point it's short testing time...put a piece of tape (not sticky - just for protection) over the area. YOU MUST put your 360 mobo into the grounding shield (otherwise you'll get the "i'm to hot" error (2 red lights flashing) ) now - some 360's will work fine with the heat sinks on top of (and yes don't leave your 360 on without the heat sinks properly attached, were just testing it to see whether it boots which after that you will immediately turn it off) touching the grounding shield and some just have to be screwed in (carefully do this without flexing the board - also refer down before testing - only if you have to screw yours in). If it boots good, if not you have done something wrong OR you may need to use the heat gun to actually re-flow the GPU and CPU (as this can be the problem - but re-inspect your work before trying this - this can also happen because the resistor has come off again particularly with the people who have to screw it in).
APPLYING SILICON: Now, open up your silicon and get about a "finger tip sized" dab (couple of 5 cent pieces stacked??) and carefully apply to the area you just worked on - smooth out nicely and don't add to much (a good amount will take 3-4 days to dry and about a week to fully properly strengthen). Now after it's all dry (and make sure it is properly dryed - don't skip on this step) we need to "improve" the heatsink/s clamp/s. First take out the black plastic piece and slightly bend the clamp so it's ALMOST flat (not sticking in like it was). Get some electrical tape (enough to apply one strip from circle to circle on the clamp) and apply and wrap it around the metal. DO the same for the other exposed bit of metal (and or other clip). Now carefully re-apply everything as normal (with minimal flexing on the board) screw it all up and your done
BUT I LOST MY PADS HELP!!!
Usually (one particular spot I have noticed) there is somewhere where you can scratch the green plastic back very carefully and add some solder and start work on...
OK I LOST 1 PAD !!
Depending on where it is, you can join one end of your resistor to the pad thats there and you can join the other end to the end of the resistor right next to it.
Pictures etc coming later on - maybe a proper tutorial (not worth doing yet, haven't taken pics)...I can video you proof too
gigabite - please, don't get $#!tty whatever if something dosen't sound right it's because it's 12AM - i'm just aiming to help - if a n00b can't use a soldering iron, pyro pen whatever don't blame me.........
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