That is a good idea, if it's not to thick (width way as in, from the front of the fan to the back of the fan) you can easily mount it on the CPU heatsink...this works well however, you will need to solder 2 wires for your fan to work of course. Red to 12v source (there are many) and Black to Ground (again, many places)...appart from that if you cannot solder, don't try it.

Doing this definitely helps cool the CPU as I have done this to my own console's - don't bother using those fans on the back of the Xbox 360, they are $#!t as Arakon said (btw i'm in Oz to )

gigabite

forget it, unless you knocked off or have a broken SMD capacitor on the back of the CPU/GPU or cut a trace (both of which are common) you are screwed...send it to a professional [with a proper BGA re-flow machine]...PM if interested

take a high quality picture of the back of the CPU, and one of the back of the GPU and post them on imageshack and post the link then I can tell if you have or haven't knocked off an SMD cap (bear in mind if you have, you will still need to take it to a professional to get it re-soldered back on or the bad trace repaired since this is quite hard to do even for myself)

gigabite

^^ Have you tried using the alt points mate ?

http://xbox-experts.com/e/pics/liteonalt1.jpg

gigabite

this wouldn't happen to be one of the new 83850C drives...would it ? (it will say on the top) and no kaienix it's R707 mate 

if it is an 83850C could you please try these alt points located here

http://xbox-experts.com/e/pics/liteonalt1.jpg

put your probe on the red circle...also if your confident scratch away a little of the lacquer (green stuff) on the via (hole) just to ensure a good connection

gigabite

FWToolbox doesn't come with 1.6...and there is no 1.6 for Hitachi period, yes your drive is dead (but the key is still there). It will need to be re-programmed externally...no there is no "clip on chip" (this isn't the Wii scene  ) - don't worry about flashing or spoofing, get it re-programmed first (PM me if interested).

gigabite

do a proper re-flow or it will remain a doorstop...

gigabite

scrap JF, don't use iCrap....use either Dosflash (16) or mtkflash

give it a go and let us know

gigabite

^ and your 100% sure you have iXtreme 1.51 ? Did you flash it or a modder (if so, ask the modder or get him to check)

gigabite

the anti-static solder blob is a blob of solder on the back of the laser...it is there to protect the laser from static damage. You MUST de-solder it for the laser to work at all...use a 25w iron MAX, heat up the iron and grab a small amount of solder and "wipe" off the solder blob

gigabite

DO NOT attempt it on a laser...period

gigabite

there all around $15AU (+ or - a few)....eBay is the easiest place to get them and yes there easy to swap...just make sure you de-solder the anti static solder blob prior to installing otherwise the laser will not function until you have done so (note that some eBay sellers will do this for $1 extra...removing your antistatic protection although it should really be fine but you take the risk).

oh and I know someone will probably ask this...you can run either SD-63 or SD-67 laser on any model of Hitachi OR Samsung

gigabite

yes if you do it improperly as illustrated in the video (which is not me dickhead) then you can (on the XCM cases) crack the top of the case as a customer did... - and you won't crack the clips at the back if you lift it in a straight motion (if you busted 2 then you were on an angle pulling it off). I do it all the time and never have a problem...I guess practice makes perfect and obviously like anything mentioned try at your own risk

gigabite

I also had one of those opening kits...and they just bend and still take twice as long to open the xbox (in my experience) because by the time you have done one side the other side locks again and ahhh next time anyone's pulling apart a box give my "way" a try

gigabite

you ask for help then question the answer ? could be something to do with the old...old what, firmware ? if your suggesting that, no that's not the problem  -   a wise person said; don't bite the hand that feeds you

gigabite

hello.....did everyone just miss this post

http://xbox-experts.com/e/index.php?show=14

this was stated (alt points) the day the drive "came out"...but did anyone pay attention and try it ?

gigabite

take it to the limit, don't just bang on it...get a sledge hammer and give it a good tap - that might just fix it right up

.....or you could get a new laser since that's your problem

gigabite

no...that's why you don't use anything to open it at all...as in this is how I do it

take off top and bottom piece, un-clip 4 clips at the front

lift up the bottom of the shell with the top of the Xbox 360 lying on a bench, place your hand on the metal cage to hold it down and with your other hand lift the bottom of the shell back (imagine a door opening lying on the floor like this: __    to    _|)  you will hear a large snap, don't worry...that's all the clips unlocking at once, clean, quick, very easy, precise and absolutely no marks at all. I've been doing it forever, can't believe people are still dicking about with pins and CD spinals etc

oh...and Gazcoigne they been super tough here about opened consoles forever...even ones that look perfect here in Australia

gigabite

aahaha "owned" as you would say .ISO, you see how no one is listening to what you say....

braza get this http://jungleflasher.net/files/JungleFlasher.0.1.62.Beta.rar

what are you using to dump ? can you try using DVDkey in DOS ?

gigabite

What bit did you use with the Dremel ? Could you take a pic of it ?

gigabite

try re-solder the SATA port and power plug for the DVD drive...use a soldering iron (you can get away with 25w but I personally use a 60w carefully due to the lead free solder being harder to melt) oh and to anyone saying "60w will burn the f***ing board" no it won't, and if said person cannot handle an iron then don't use a 60w iron period [posted in advance for any whining]

post back...

gigabite