Fist of all: a full backup is always the best option.

But if you don't want to wait, you SHOULD be able do it lake this:

1. NandPro.exe lpt: -r256 nand1.bin 0 50 (do it at least 2 times until you got 2 matching SHA-1 hashes)
2. NandPro.exe lpt: -e256 0 50
3. NandPro.exe lpt: -w256 0 50 (add the "0 50"!, in case XeLL ever grows (I don't exactly know if it's going to, but if it does, it's gonna write parts that you didn't dump))

That should be safe, but I still recommend dumping the whole NAND.

0 50 means starting at block 0, stopping at block 50. If I'm right, that's what XeLL uses.

I don't know why it isn't working for us.

I'll try re-soldering tje JTAG part this afternoon.

It really sucks, I want to run XeLL .

The original dump is just working fine, I've read out my flashed hack, and it is just matching SHA-1's.

Anyone???

I don't really know what should be wrong, i'm currently reading out like this:

NandPro.exe lpt: -r16 hacked.bin 0 50

Edit:

My NAND should not be the problem; hacked.bin and falcon_hack_updxell.bin are matching SHA-1's!

What output did you use?

VGA WAS the only supported one some time ago, I don't know which ones are supported atm.

About my case:

Did everything again, but sill STUCKED:

1. NandPro.exe lpt: -e16 (erasing the full NAND just to be sure)
2. NandPro.exe lpt: -w16 nand1.bin (flashing my original one)
3. NandPro.exe lpt: -r16 nand4.bin (dumping to verify it flashed correctly, SHA-1 matches nand1.bin, so my LPT interface is as good as it can be ) Xbox 360 dash WORKS!
4. NandPro.exe lpt: -e16 0 50 (erasing first 50 blocks to be sure)
5. NandPro.exe lpt: -w16 falcon_hack_updxell.bin (flashing XeLL into the NAND)

End result: E 79

Does someone know what my problem is?

I think so???

I soldered the diodes on the J2D2 pad, does it really have to be like the diagram, or is the 2 diodes on J2D2 also correct?

Both rings are on the other side of J2D2, did the ts do that?

I just wanted to make a new topic about this, as i'm also stuck at the same part.

I got a Falcon box, and received the last needed diode yesterday, so I direclty soldered the diode after dinner .

I thought: let's read out the NAND another time, just to make sure; it was matching my previous dumps.

If im doing it like this: "NandPro.exe lpt: -w16 falcon_hack_updxell.bin 0 50" I got an RROD.

If I first erase it with the -e16 command, there is no RROD, but a E79 code.

If I flash back my original dump, my Xbox is just working like it should .

The older falcon_hack.bin gives me the same result.

Someone?

Well, I don't know about him, but at my Windows 7 x64 laptop it's also crashing.

Also in compatiblity mode configured as XP, also in XP Mode.

Yeah, that the guy from the picture didn't need it, doesn't mean nobody needs it, like my case:

No diode - NAND was dumping, but different every time, none of it matched each other after like 8 tries and different LPT settings. 360 Flash Tool showed weird characters.
Diode - NAND is not always dumping without errors (not sure why), but the ones that did finish generated the same SHA-1 hash. 360 Flash Tool doesn't show any weird characters, the dump looks great!

BAT41 diode + Falcon motherboard and P35-DS3R PC motherboard.

A little question (same subject, so opening a new topic is just not necesary I think):

Got 2 exact NAND dumps now; nand1.bin and nand5.bin. (2, 3, 4 were bad while dumping, so i canceled those). As said above, both the same SHA-1 hash, total commander also report a match.

Infectus Tools reports the same as the ts, but I don't have any bad pages, and have more emty ones.

I can't open it in Degrader though, can I be sure that this dump is a good one? I did the dumping with one wire in the JTAG part disconnected (only had 2/3 diodes, new ones are ordered, but I read only the LPT part is needed to read).

Can I be sure it's good know?

I also think it's not possible.

Xbox 1 = IDE
Xbox 360 = SATA

Just one of the problems...

The only way to get your DVD-drive working again is by having it's key.

There are simply two ways for getting te key:

1. Reading it from the DVD-drive (option screwed).
2. Reading it from the NAND memory. This option requires a kernel lower than 849* + JTAG hack. If you already have 849*+, you can say goobye to your drive. I don't think a new hack will be found within some years.

Well, taking out the DVD-drive does not require disasambly of the motherboard. As the RROD shows up because of bad solder connections and stuff (caused by the heat + x-clamps, or removing the motherboard), and not by flashing the drive, you're not really responsible in my oppinion.

As you're flashing for free, they can't count on ANYTHING, so they could only ask you friendly to help him repair his box.

On the other side, atm I'm doing repairs myself, I fixed 3 out of 3 boxes bought on the internet with an RROD. 2 of them were even already fixed before by the user itself. Costs pers Xbox 360 are only € 1,- for me or something (alcohol for cleaning, thermal compound between the CPU/GPU + heatsinks, and some screws I bought really cheap at a local store). So if you are in a real frienly mood, you could say you'd try it for the "customer".

If friend asks me to flash their drive, I CLEARLY state that the flashing is at their own risk (because I don't earn anything on them, and don't want to make to much costs myself IF a console dies). If i do flashes for non-friends, asking money for it, you cannot walk away so easiliy, even if it is not your fault.

I had the same thing yesterday.

I'm buying cheap Xbox 360's (mostly with RROD's) on Marktplaats.nl (Dutch kind of eBay). One console I received had some kind of black thing only connected to one wire. When I was touching it (gently!), another piece fell off. I even saw that a little PCB-track was broken, and coming off the PCB. I thought this one was dead, and there was no way reviving it, but that was not the case.

I assembled the "X-clamp fix", still RROD. The Xbox was using to much space in my room, so I decided to assemble it anyway. I was thinking about a tutorial from Team Xecuter, so I followed that one, and unplugged my fan-plug. I overheated the Xbox untill a "2 RROD" showed up. I let the Xbox cool down, and turned it on again. IT WAS WORKING AGAIN . Played GTA IV for multiple hours, and it's still working!

I don't know if this pieces will become necessary some time, but for basic playing my box is working!

Well, you could, but a diode is recommended.

Don't try to do everything hurried. I didn't have everything either, I just had to buy some things...

I still did not finish my Xbox 360. Currently preparing my test-PC, and busy for school etc.

I also have a new hobby: buying cheap Xbox 360's with RROD, and fix em. Bought 1, fixed 1, only for € 25,- (with PSU) .

Should be just a normal wire to bridge the two points i guess. I'm having big trouble soldering the db1f1 point. Someone got an idea how to fix this?

Alright, everything is going to be clear for me now...

I just opened my Xbox to look what's inside (not the first time for me, but I can't remember what's on my motherboard exactly).

At this picture: http://pictures.xbox-scene.com/xbox360/free60/diagram.jpg, they're pointing at the wireless-receiver. I can solder directly on the motherboard right (where the plug for the receiver is soldered)? That's because I think it will be better to keep everything in one piece instead of soldering onto swappable pieces.

I just want to know 4 sure .

But I have a little problem.

I planned to buy 1 diode, I bougth 2 in case 1 is failing or whatever, so I will receive 2 today.

But the new Xenon diagram needs 2 and the LPT cable needs 1, so I need 1 more.

Now I heard that the one from the LPT cable is optional (more a fix for those who had trouble), so in first instance, I can try with 2 diodes (soldering them like the new Xenon diagram) right?

Can someone confirm this?

And (I think) my last question: it is http://i.imgur.com/Fdjmi.png or http://pictures.xbox-scene.com/xbox360/free60/diagram.jpg right? I don't know what's the one I have in my box, but it can't be both right?

To complete the whole picture:

I need to solder the LPT1 cable like said in the Xenon diagrams (http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/3346/xenondiag.jpg is the best one i found yet, i think).
And the hack itself using http://i.imgur.com/Fdjmi.png?

But it generates some more questions for me:

What about the resistors of 330 Ohm that were not required anymore (you said), but are still in the Xenon diagram's? Should I just ignore them? Or should i solder them following the Xenon's insctructions.
And what's up with this picture: http://pictures.xbox-scene.com/xbox360/free60/diagram.jpg?

Sorry for keep shooting questions on you, I just want to know for sure.

That's right ^^.

A special "fuse" in the CPU will be destroyed, and that will not let any previous boards pass.

The best option is having two boxes (like me), one is banned, and is my solder-what-I-want-box and the other is orginal (except de DVD-drive hack) to play online with the newest games.

It is already bookmarked for over an week .

But I still don't fully understand it. Do I have to ignore the Xenon diagram's completely?

Could yo give the links to all the pictures I need, I did some research, but it's not fully clear which ones i need to use (I understand I need multiple).

Mmm... I still don't know what digram I have to use. Everywhere I find Xenon diagram's, but my Xbox 360 is a Falcon. So for sure I just bought it like this (without having to order another 3 times or something).

About the resistors: I don't care about that € 1,80. Buying that much switching diodes wasn't an option; they are € 0,37 p/s. Buying that one a 100 times would have costed me € 37,- .

Can you collect the right diagram's for me???

Alright, everything is ordered.

100x 330 Ohm (only € 1,80)
100x 120 Ohm (only € 1,80)
2x BAT41 diode (in case I mess up one, or one is DOA, or something like that)
Weller 20 Watt small soldering-iron (my current one is a bit huge in my oppinion)
FLUITIN 0,7 mm with flux-core
A soldering-iron holder (my current one is a bit cheap)

That should do it i guess. We'll see!

Thx for helping everyone! I'l keep you posted!