Just mentioning E10 (0022) means CPU timeout so it has nothing to do with SMC.

You probably had the CPU fuses glitch and that prevents it from booting.  If you could glitch it and see what it's going on it should be fixable.

GPU can cause CPU timeout only if traces that go from it to the CPU are broken.

It's a typical behavior of a console that has been HDMI fried.

Either it has no video at HDMI port (mild case) or it deep-fries HANA and that prevents the system from booting or even from powering on (HANA supplies SMC with clocks and is part of it's I/O registers. In a severe case of malfunction even the SPI port for NAND access is "muted" blocking reading/writing to NAND.

Some important chip shorted out and did over current the resistor, making it heat and burn the board under it. I don't think you will be able to repair that, sadly.

Very likely the CGPU or the video output part of HANA is shorted out.


Algum chip importante entrou em curto-circuito e sobrecarregou o resistor fazendo-o queimar a placa em baixo dele. Eu nao acho que voce vai consequir consertar... Uma pena.

Possivelmente a CGPU ou a parte de saida de video do HANA esta em curto circuito.

I suggest that you ask that on HDD/data recovery forums. The chance you get an useful answer there is like 90% bigger.

Why you need a undo ? The HD should work as it used to before, just identifies as a different brand/model.

The two packages were updated not very long ago ... (Maybe about 6 months ago)

Yeah, but then you're playing with the possibility of their oversight in the speed thing.

The sole reason why there is no mass banning about non DVD drive things is that the issues are way too specific for them to investigate in a "mass" way (automatic triggering) but a lot of things can be analyzed in a case per case basis if they feel like. From minor low profile hacks to major stuff like gamertag hacking.

So while some hacks are quite stealth when you're out in the crowd, if a MS employee picks you for a detailed investigation you'd be screwed... lol 

That's my point.

Dude don't give MS ideas on how to ban you ... >_<

Your answer proves you didn't understand a single word of what I said...

First line I said:

>_<

FYI, you can use a Wireless controller receiver for Windows in one of the XBOX360 USB ports as a test. If the controller syncs to that (use the button on the receiver instead of the one on the console) then you will be 1000% sure it's the RF board that is faulty.

Read it again ?  First line, ignore the rest if you can't understand (explanation of why the resistor is important)...

Play and charge do not connect the controller to the console. It has a partial connection which is only used to PAIR the console with the controller AND VERIFY if the battery is charged.

The actual play commands are sent through the RF board still. So if the RF board ONLY NATIVE WIRED controllers will work on your console. And that has nothing to do with mangled keyvault.

Put your old "not updated KV" back. That will probably solve all of your problems (keep fcrt.bin out though)

Replace that resistor. It's broken.

Because the ARGON bus is open collector (means it SHORTS the voltage on the line to GND to sign an 0 value) the line is aways stuck at 0 because the resistor that makes it go back to 1 is broken. 

Standard pinout, same as high end 4 wire GFX card fans:


GND = Ground
+12V = 12v from PSU
Monitor = pulses once every rotation of the blades.
PWM = lowering the voltage at this pin (the fan has an internal circuit that puts power on this pin) reduces it's speed.

And here:  http://thereifixedit.failblog.org/2012/03/05/white-trash-repairs-milkforce-gts/

Notice that I used an XBOX360s fan on that repair and I didn't change anything on it, that was Plug and Play.


edit:  And a hint from me:  Cutting the blue wire makes the fan run AWAYS on maximum speed.

connect the drive to the PC, use an hexeditor (Winhex works, grab a demo) open the drive, jump to sector 16 and see if there's data that look like the Serial number, model and make of the drive. The security sector is approximately 16KB long, contains the drive ID data, an digital signature and a PNG image of Microsoft logo made with Macromedia Fireworks.

You will need a computer to do what you want to, because the protocol is DIGITAL and VERY complex.

It's actually more like an "tunnel" where USB like computer communication is transmitted through an "bluetooth like" RF channel. That's why I said you will need an computer device to decode and translate the signals.

Broken ARGON_DATA signal from JTAG hack = DEAD ROL.

You can use already synced controllers but you can't sync new controllers and lights will never power on.

verify the pin ARGON_DATA from the ROL connector to see if it reaches to the SB chip.

Xenon CB 1920,1921,1923, 7xxx, 8xxx, dual CB = Hashed KV with OSIG.

Xenon CB 1888,190x,1940 = Old KV with or without OSIG but non hashed.

All KVs without OSIG are non hashed.
Some OSIG KVs are non hashed.

This apply only to XENON and anything newer than Xenon, including Zephyr will have hashed KV in all cases so NO KV SWAPPING without hacked kernel.