yes it's normal, the 93450 firmware is so similar to the 74850, and JF 1.67 shows it like this because it needs updating.


this issue was addressed just some posts before.... first u need to insert your Key in the Samsung 1.61 firmware ( or u can use the old Samsung Xtreme5.3 fw without the stealth checks and can boot all future games in case of wave5 discs,but remember it's not safe for Xbox Live and even 1.61 is not that safe too, I'm currently going for Xtreme5.3C ) then you save the fw with key inserted.
Now the spoofing to the new 93450 drive must be done manually with a hex-editor, u must find the spoof strings location in the fw and that can be done by comparing different spoofed versions of the same fw, or you can wait for new tools to be updated and released.
Spoofing to model 84350 while your drive is 93450 will get you the E66 error for sure.

yes, doesn't need to be connected to the lens and motor, u only need the SPI Flash to be powered and Sata connected to dump it.

the half open tray is not needed while using MRA method, you are now dumping the whole firmware and not just extracting the key like we used to do before.

I had this problem too with one drive so far, it was dumped correctly, then flashed with Ixtreme, traces were soldered again and everything cleaned but the drive is totally dead, no more eject, tried powering it from the Maximus-Xtractor and from the 360,the same.
So i had to exchange it with another Liteon 74850 Drive, the resistor used was a combination of 11 Ohm + 10 Ohm in series, i think 21 Ohm is still on the safe side and also the same resistors were used to dump many drives now with no problem.
I prefer now to use the 360 itself  to power the drives while dumping instead of the Xtractor chip to protect it from any damage in case..

As for spoofing to BenQ, you can open the BenQ fw in JungleFlasher,use the manual spoof option and insert your key without spoofing the fw to any other drive model,and save the FW, then u need to do it manually for now,use a hex-editor and compare 2 BenQ firmwares spoofed each to different drive models so u get the locations where u need to add the 93450 info, etc...

I hope there will be another safer method to dump these drives because i dont wanna lose other drives randomly in the process,(knowing that i have old skills in soldering so everything was done clean without user errors )

I suggest you take the Key, insert it into a spare drive with the Ixtreme firmware, spoof the firmware to your LiteOn drive Model and try it on your 360, this way you keep the original Drive safe with it's stock firmware, unless you don't have a spare drive then it's better to wait till someone with spare drives can confirm this is safe, I will do this as soon I can find some free time to work on it,I will post my results when done.
Good luck

Rogero

Thanks to Geremia who started this thread by pointing others on the start point, (Knowing that in the previous days he have helped the scene a lot in the Hitachi firmware days, when the 360 Dashboard had timeout problems and we needed a software reset to boot the backup,then Geremia found the fix for the firmware... I'm sure most of the sceners have forgotten this by now...)
(Also I remember when The Specialist had the first drive hacked,also the Hitachi, and he decided to keep the method private for a while until C4Eva stepped in and released it to the public....i guess history will always repeat itself  )
enough history.... as for now,we don't care who had the drive hacked in the first place, Geremia started the thread, then MRA and TMF made it progress in the right direction, let's keep it up to reach what we all want.

and at the end of the day,all the Hackers of the scene deserves respect for the hard work and passion they put into this,whenever it's our hobby,our job,etc... doesn't matter.
They all released priceless info in the name of the scene and I hope we can always have the scene going on...
Respects to : the Specialist, C4Eva, Geremia, MRA, TMF, SeventhSon, Maximus,  and many many others..

now let's get our hands on some new drives,start lifting pins,dumping keys,spoofing drives.... the usual fun going on  

it's for Samsung for now, hope GaryOPA & Maximus are working on a hitachi version..

i found this on another page

Glad to know that c4eva is working himself on the Hitachi and a BenQ version..
Thanks C4eva, Gary and all others involved...

Exactly...welcome back to Planet Earth    lol

and yes it's a new fw with new stealth features to use it more safely online,
also if a backup is not burned in stealth mode (with correct ss,PFI... ) the fw wont boot it.

Hello Guys..
from my own experiences with banning from xbox Live lately,here's what I have to say:
I am now online on Live downloading some arcade games, with a console i have flashed yesterday
with it's own power supply, samsung ms28 with 5.3, i played some backups on it on purpose,
then i inserted my HDD which have my Live account and got connected to Live with no problem
it passed almost 4 hours and i'm still not banned.

I have my main console which was flashed long time from it's own power supply too,
Samsung ms25 updated with all Fw releases till 5.3, played lot of backups on it, also it
still can connect with no problem but i didnt use any backups lately even while offline
( as GaryOPA advised me Thanks Gary , C4E, TheSpecialist and all respected persons
 who helped achieve these Firmwares, I'm a Programmer myself but not so much into assembly
 like these talented guys are,and I really appreciate their dedications and sacrifices for the scene )

I will be testing more and more with Live because I dont care that much about a console being banned
from Live, simply because I have many consoles for sale or repair here and no one in my region even connects
to Live.. Except me spending some times on GOW ot MK Ultimate so I can test banning theories with cool nerves...

Good Luck witth the new firmware and i'm sure C4E have emulated everything necessary now

you can forget about the HDD problem for now,first get the xbox fixed then you will know if it's locked or not,if you're lucky enough you'll have it unlocked so you can use it without any problem or else you will use a new HDD.

All you need to do now is:

1- get a flashable modchip ( to put the needed bios image in )
    (I used an old Matrix chip that came with its programmer but It needed
     some wires soldering to the board to get it boot on a v1.3 board.
     you can use an Xchip , Xecutor, SmartXX.... )
2- send me your e-mail in PM
3- flash the ready bios into the modchip
4- install the modchip
5- boot the xbox from the modchip bios and wait about 2 minutes
    ( you will notice a very dark video output,if u get close to the TV you can
    see the Linux commands and something like EEprom Flashed Successfully )
6- turn off the xbox
7- remove the modchip or turn it off
8- boot your xbox again
9- post your results

First of all, is your Xbox HDD locked or not ?

1- If it's unlocked so you can forget about finding the original Eeprom image of your Xbox because you can lock it later using 
    ConfigMagic or EvolutionX Dashboard.

2- If it's locked then you have 2 choices:
    a )  Find your original Eeprom image that have the right key for your HDD.

    b )  Forget about the original Eeprom image and get yourself another ready HDD.

by the way, dont worry about the Eeprom image because you can even build one using ConfigMagic
or you can also just use the Eeprom that came already patched within that Cromwell bios you'll be using
to fix the Xbox EEprom.

Hi again...

Yeah Arakon you're so right,the video mode changer works fine in case his Eeprom is not corrupted, but for some reason sometimes the eeprom got corrupted when using these video mode changer programs especially when it involves NTSC/J and the xbox will end up with only sound but no video output, even the program Called "EEPROMER" dont work in this case,
that's why the modified cromwell bios that flashs the Eeprom automatically was written.

beleive me I spent many nights on this problem and tried every possible way to fix that xbox...and I'm so sorry that I missed to mention that the HDD must be replaced with another (Unlocked) one,so when U boot your xbox again,you will be able to format the new HDD and install a dashboard of your choice, after all using a new HDD to save the xbox motherboard is not that bad

and if you want to use Xbox Live again, you can simply install the latest retail MS Dashboard and your Eeprom must have a valid key,then U remove the modchip or turn it off,depending on which modchip you are using ( U can also use a softmod ) and U can go Live again with no problem.


If you can find your original Eeprom backup, then you can patch it to the modified-cromwell bios and this way you will save your current HDD from being replaced....
If you find it soon...contact me and I'll take you from there...

Cheers...

I had this same problem with an Xbox before and I was able to fix it after some research,when you change the Video mode to  NTSC/J the Eeprom gets corrupted and U need to restore a valid Eeprom image to fix it.

The Enigmah disc wont work at all, I'll tell you why.. because it needs the xbox to be running a valid Eeprom in order to change it to another Video Mode.

So there is on the web a copy of the cromwell bios that can be patched with a valid Eeprom image and flashed to a modchip, then U can boot your xbox from the modchip and this cromwell bios will automatically flash your eeprom with the valid eeprom Image contained within ( You will not see any output meanwhile ),then U restart the xbox and U'll have your video output again.

Another alternative is to remove the eeprom itself from the xbox board and
flash it with a valid Eeprom image ( i.e: EEprom.bin  ) then solder it back.

If you need any help PM me and I can guide you to fix it.

Cheers.

Guess what guys,I just got today an NTSC/UC console that have also freezing problems right after turning it on for some minutes,
it have a Samsung drive flashed with the Xtreme v3.0 FW and the console never had any dash updates,not from the internet,
and not from any game also,It was working fine for my friend for about 5 months from now and suddenly he have freezing problems,
first it freezed after 1 hour of playing,then after a shorter time till now it's freezing right after minutes...

So guys the update have nothing to do at all about the freezing problem, it's purely hardware related, either bad cooling
or some hardware is failing after a period of usage.... I'll be checking the console tonight....
By the way,in case u didnt know , that u can clear the cache of the xbox 360 and remove all the updates applied to your dash,
restoring the 360 to it's original dash version   there's a sequence of keys to be pressed, i can find it on my PC if someone needs it.

cheers...

I didnt use any thermeal paste,just modding the fans to run at full speed will make a big change in the 360 internal cooling...

and for the details about the 12V Fans mod, here's the link :

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?s=bedbe9824d97ba9306ba11e80bd610cf&showtopic=467270&st=0

Hello...
I have had exactly this same problem just the way u described it, and precisely I had it with 2 different PAL consoles (less problems with NTSC consoles).

What I noticed is that PAL consoles have heating problems,the fans of a PAL console runs at a slow speed and rarely change to a higher cooling speed while the GPU
of the 360 needs few minutes to reach a very high temperature,with my other NTSC consoles I have the fans running high just from the moment that I power it on.
( I think MS have set the temperature sensors of a PAL console differently from the NTSC consoles due to the difference in regions climate )
and the lines of garbage graphics at the bottom of ur screen enforce my theory...

All U have to do mate is to disconnect the 2 wires of the Fan plug ( wires: Red and Brown ) and connects them to a 12V point on the motherboard ( U can use the DVD drive cable,the pin in the Right-Down corner of the mother board plug = 12V )

In my case I had freezing problems exactly some minutes after booting the console,now with Fans running at 12V no more freezing at all....
hope this works for u too mate..let us know

Cheers

Yes U can notice a small difference in loading times, but it's not a big deal coz once the game is loaded u'll be fine
I also prefer the Slow mode for less Drive noise and more cheap Media compatibility..

Hi klexen :

Yes your backups will work just fine, and No they wont have the stealth mode.

you're lucky enough because I have also an Nforce3 250Gb  board,and Yes it works just great with MTKflash without the need to edit anything.

Yes exactly,these files makes ur backup looks almost identical to your original discs which makes them stealth.

Latest C4E firmwares comes with 2 preset speeds for reading backups,one is Full speed to treat the backup just like an original disc
and this requires U to use good Media for ur backups,the other is Slow speed that will read ur backups slower but much compatible with cheap Media discs.
Each FW have the 2 speeds integrated (Full Speed ~ 12x & Slow ~ 4x) and U need to insert an original Disc to switch the FW speed from Full to Slow
or vice-a-versa,also each FW have 2 versions for example: 4.1a (with Full speed by default) or 4.1b (with Slow speed by default).

N.B: just to let u know that FW from 4.0 and above comes with a special feature that protects the FW from being flashed again Unless U are in the
       0800 mode ( which U can turn it on by using the 0800 iso provided with the FW and burned to a Dual Layer disc )

I am still with version 3.2 now and using non-stealth backups because I never use Xbox-Live anyway
I hope u're up-to-date now with FW flashing, and good luck..

nice work Carranzafp,good to know that U got the drive working and loading games fine,
from your photos I see U have used another chip type other then the original one removed
from the drive, so as LittleJonny mentioned,a little explanation about flash compatibility with the drive
would be helpfull...
in case someone have damaged the flash while heating and removing it:
is there another possible way to solder some wires and dump the firmware
while still attached to the board !!! then we can remove the flash chip even if it
gets damaged  during the process...

Keep up the good work guys..
cheers

Thx TMF for the info regarding the new Epoxy,I'll be removing one of these chips for the first time soon,
I have a digital rework station and soon i'll get my willem programmer,if possible:
any photos of the chip while being removed will be great...

Thanks TMF for all info and efforts U do for the xbox 360 scene..
Cheers...