Thanks for the head's up, I hope someone else can confirm this (or unconfirm this).

I tend to agree with Arakon on this, but I have seen many posts with people talking about their backups stop working after the NXE update.  It seems alot to be a coincidence.

The people always seem to be ones that got a drive flashed by someone else.  This probably means they have never updated it on their own.  Maybe something in the update recognizes something in an older firmware?  Or an older burning method?

Anyone want to test NXE with a really old firmware, and non-stealth discs?

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Perhaps it's not the update, but they share a common factor.  For example, maybe someone that hasn't used their xbox in a while would just now get the update.  Someone who hasn't used their xbox in a while would just now realize that their drive can no longer read backups because cigarette tar has slowly been building up in the lens, making backups harder to read.  (Originals by their nature are easier to read)  There was actually something funny about the Wii not being able to read Super Smash Brothers (One of, if not the first dual layer wii game) in households with smokers, for the aforementioned reason.

It looks like you only started one thread besides this one:
http://www.xboxhacker.net/index.php?topic=11247

I don't see why anyone would have anything else to add to it now, since your last comment pretty much concludes it.

I guess you only have to worry about *ahem* old thread bumpers.

Not unless you're an admin.

But why the need?

I think he's oversimplifying.

My second bullet (above) will get you banned.
Playing games before release date will get you banned.
Also, something about games being a special reviewer's copy, also.

iXtreme does not protect against any of these.

None of these are an issue if you rip your own (not downloading them).

I haven't heard of anyone blowing a motherboard from trying to flash a drive.  If it's not compatible, it just doesn't work.

Someone blew a PSU which supposedly took out his CK3, but that's because his PSU was a piece of crap.

I assumed they put the new ones in on their side because the original ones were right-angle leds and lit to the side.  I suppose you could lay them flat if you want them less bright when you put the console back together.  Contrary to what some people think, not everyone thinks all LEDs in all projects should be super bright.  I personally hate the stupid led on my surround sound system, when the lights are low, it's damn distracting trying to watch a movie.  I can dim the brightness, but the setting doesn't stay after I turn the thing off.  Annoying!

<sarcasm>
OMG!  The liteon can be flashed?  When did this happen?
</sarcasm>

Bit of solder?  don't both LED's have to connect to one end?

This shows one led:
http://llamma.com/xbox360/mods/images/ring-of-light/042806%20184.jpg

The next one has to go from one end to the other, NOT to the middle, right?
What a PITA.

Bad CRC on what exactly?

Video?
V0?
V1?
PFI?
DMI?
SS?
Xex?
Game Data?

The only one of those I wouldn't worry about being verified is probably the DMI.

Team Xecuter, the people who made that CK3 have their own guide for using the CK3 on samsung here:
http://team-xecuter.com/ck3/samsung.htm

Also, the textbook tutorial 2008 should work for you as well.

There are guides.  There aren't really "You are a retard" guides and "Expert Electronic Engineer Awesome People" guides.  There are just guides.

And the BenQ is really nothing like the liteon, from a flashing standpoint.

Good luck.

Oh, just throwing it out there, be careful when you plug the power cable back into the liteon.  There are SO many posts on this forum from trying to plug it in upside down.  Instant brick, pretty much.

Never about that other guy, it was just that it like 3 new people started to bump old threads all about the same time.

Just as a general rule:  If a thread had been dead for a long time, leave it that way.  Most of the time the people who posted the original problem aren't even around anymore if the thread is a couple months old.  Or the discussion is obsolete by new information covered in newer threads.  There are exceptions, perhaps, if you personally are experiencing the same problem and are wondering if it was resolved and not mentioned.  This would be an alternative to starting a new thread.

Reading through all the old threads isn't a bad thing (it's a good thing), just resist the urge to comment on all of them.

That board has a VIA chipset.  I suppose the "NOOB guide to flashing liteon with VIA" would be very applicable.
http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/iriez/N00B_LiteOn_Flash_with_VIA.pdf

There is no ultimate compatibility list for chipsets.  And there's certainly not a guide for every single specific chipset out there.  Give yours a try, and if you succeed, say so.  This way others can benefit.

Yeah, I think he bumped one right under the post yelling at me for bumping it.

Ice likes to spout out info from his experience, which may or may not be useful yet.  But kieranodonnelly was a different animal altogether, (a total douche).

Are you talking about a bad/no stealth data, or are you talking about read errors in the actual game data?

• iXtreme will not play games with no stealth.
• iXtreme will play games with incorrect (some other game's) stealth.  This will never be a problem for someone ripping their own games properly.  Only downloading retarded releases or incorrectly fixing non-stealth backups would do this.  Something like ABGX would verify this.
• iXtreme will play games with errors in the game data.  Not sure if it would get you banned, maybe just crash a game or get read errors.  This could happen if your iso files got damaged before burning, I don't think any of the programs would rip with read errors without telling you so (from a dirty or scratched disc).  Again, something like ABGX can verify the game data's CRC.

Yeah, I don't think I'd have much of a choice.  I can solder fine, I would just prefer a nice clean direct replacement (quicker, easier) than having to use some sort of jumper wire for the error LEDs.

Edit:
Also, modify hasn't been there always:
http://www.xboxhacker.net/index.php?topic=9897.0

But it could have well been there since I've been here, so maybe I was just blind before.

He didn't specify in his post, but I think he was looking for an XBox1 case. (Posted in Xbox1 section)

GAH!

Why do you always preface your questions with, "i've modded alot of consoles so i know my way around them" or "I don't need a noob guide as i've done quite a few consoles now"?

If you haven't done a liteon, then you are new to liteons.  They don't flash like the other drives.  There's nothing wrong with it being your first time, but you don't need to front, you know?

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Actually, the NOOB Guide to Flashing Liteons is what I'd recommend:
http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/iriez/N00B_LiteOn_Flash_with_VIA.pdf

Or you could follow Team Xecuter's guide (the people who made your CK3)
http://team-xecuter.com/ck3/liteon_windows.htm

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Also, did you not already read this here?:
http://www.xboxhacker.net/index.php?topic=11189.msg73167#msg73167

Does the drive read originals?  Did you remove the anti-static solder blob (or received one with already removed)?

Yes, PCB swapping (of the same drive type!) is an easy way to move the firmware + key to your new drive.  As long as your problem is not on the PCB itself.  I'm pretty sure that this is true for all drive models.  The drives don't even have to be the same ROM versions (Hitachi's)