Bah, RGH2 times for this Jasper is terrible with the CK3 lite. Trying every combination of timing/resistors/capacitors with a decent number of iterations would take days. Unless they release a CK3 Pro for phats or some new hack that improves times, I may just keep this console stock. At the very least, I was able to make this console without a drive key fully useful again with the leaked bootloader mentioned in the original post, and that makes me happy.

Can you elaborate on that some?

Just to rule out the obvious, when you flashed back to the stock nand, you disconnected the glitch chip and disconnected power for a bit (to reload the new smc), yes?

Since jtag/rgh consoles can use any drive already (including SSDs), has anyone done any sort of benchmark comparisons to see if SSD's make any appreciable difference in xbox performance (loading times).

I was very happy about this. The DGX seemed like good solution, but the phat version never released, nor did any of the technical details about it. I've had a drive-less jasper waiting for months for some good news and now I have some. I'll give it a go tonight.

First of all, brilliant work, dstruktiv. This program has worked like a champ since day one, I love it. However, recently I've noticed one quirk. I cloned one of my harddrives onto a new drive to use with my other console. (One JTAG, one RGH) Afterward, any games installed via NXE2GOD would fail to load (associated with the original console) whereas games installed via ISO2GOD still ran fine. I simply reinstalled the games via the dash from the discs and reran NXE2GOD and everything was fine. Is there anyway for NXE2GOD to strip this console specific information out of the container to leave the install more universal, or would this create some other problem?

Simply flashing the bin won't do it, you'll also have to resize your partition. I don't know if there are any tools for this, might be do-able with some hex editing on the drive. I'd look for some guides on resizing partitions, I vaguely remember seeing them when I moved from my 120GB to 500GB. Worst case scenario is that you'd copy the files off onto somewhere else, and then put them back after re-partitioning.

You need either JTAG or RGH to use Dashlaunch, so no.

Sweet, glad it worked well for you.

Overall not bad for my very first uv etch.  The copper in the big ground fill is a bit light, I blame weak toner coverage on my transparency.  I guess I'll have to use a better printer or double up on the sheets.

Anyhow, all three work (tested), and have been sent out.  Thanks for the interest guys!

Updated pics for reference:




The blobs aren't labeled on the board, so here's the pinout.

Left side, top to bottom:

• Power (3.3v)
• Eject
• Ground

Right side, top to bottom:

• Green LED
• Button
• Ground
• Red LED

Done!



I'll PM you for details.

Fair enough.  I'll definitely have a board for you.

Using my board for eject, the Maximus becomes completely redundant in this, so you may as well take it out.  All it will be doing for you is regulating 3.3v from 5v, but 3.3v is already available on the power board.  A multimeter and/or the notes further up the thread should be all you need to make the cable to go from the power board to the drive.

If you're fine with 'hold for eject', it would still work fine with the computer.  (Just wire the green led to power with proper resistor.)

As for the board, I hope to have three made sometime in the next week.  I want to make them now, I just haven't the time yet.  I'll let you know as soon as they're done.

Is the eject button on the Maximus board a momentary or toggle switch?

To make the tray open or close, you have to supply either 3.3v or gnd to the pin on the back of the drive.  The switch on the front of the HD-DVD case is only a momentary tact switch, so you can't directly use it to switch the supply to the pin without some other logic.  (Unless you want to hold for eject, release for close.)

However, if the Maximus board's eject switch is momentary, you can just connect the front eject button in parallel with it, and allow the board to use it's own logic to handle the eject.  If the Maximus board's eject button is a toggle, then you'll have to find another way.

"Finding another way" is exactly why I made my little eject board (see above).  If that is the scenario you find yourself in, you're in luck!  It just so happens that I'm building a UV-based etching setup and in a week or so I'll be etching a set of all-SMD eject boards based on the design I used above but smaller.  I've got all the parts (for the setup and the boards), it's time that I lack currently.

Anyhow, as far as the pinout for the board in the board in the HD-DVD drive already, the red and green are the positive supply to the red and green leds, respectively.  Black is ground (pretty sure), which makes grey the switch pin (gnd when button pressed, floating when not pressed).

Edit: Actually, looking at pics of the Maximus Power Dongle, it looks like the eject button is momentary, but I don't see any anything that toggles an output (at least not on the top).  Does it push for eject and push again to close, or push for eject and release to close?

Could just be a bug with the homebrew software you're using to extract.  Phonsey's suggestion above could work for you.  It's a roundabout way of doing things, but I don't see many other options for you here.

Do you have an 0800 drive?  Perhaps try using a pc to transfer the files to the external drive.

Don't forget that he also needs some way to program his glitch chip.

If you have an extra laptop adapter laying around and you want to build that, good for you.  But to make it interesting for other people, it needs to be better/cheaper than something like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812123309

Okay, I made a new eject board, this one based on the ATtiny45.  It functions the same as the other one.


Scratchpad schematic: http://imgur.com/frjVx/
Top of board (with overlay): http://imgur.com/TcTyM/
Bottom of board: http://imgur.com/KSY2m/

Pretty simple, just stick the labelled wires in where the circles are, and solder to the point right next to it.

http://imgur.com/xRJBC
http://imgur.com/dzk0i
Shows eject switch mounted on side of drive.
Three wires attached:

• 3.3v source, orange, plugged into power board
• gnd, black (soldered to piece of metal)
• open/close pin, gray (connected to back of dvd-rom)

http://imgur.com/ueAZl
Shows connector plugged into back of dvd-rom.

• Black - Gnd
• Yellow - 12v
• Red - 5v
• Orange - 3.3v

All these pins are plugged into the power board, except the gray one, which goes to the eject board I made.

http://imgur.com/daYGC
The power board is labeled well with it's voltages, but here is a picture of how I arranged the wires for it.

http://imgur.com/uVwsO
USB ports on the back.  Little one from computer, bigger ones supplied by hub for other devices/

http://imgur.com/q3j6C
You can't see the wiring through the hot glue blobs, but the cable from the little USB port goes into the gutted USB hub (computer side), the two bigger usb cables wire to the port side of the USB hub.

http://imgur.com/oB037
This is what the USB hub looked like before I cracked it open and removed all the cables.  I used this one because it's got a small board, and the ports are only connected by wires, no USB sockets to desolder from the board.  Once you break it open, you can see where the power/gnd/data lines go.  Just make note of this before you start (pictures are good).  Do not rely on the wire colors to be accurate (red-5v, black-gnd, green&white-data), they could be anything. The order that they're soldered on seemed to be right, though.  Pin them out from the socket on the cable.  Alternatively, you can skip the hub and wire the little port directly to the USB-to-SATA board.  It would be WAY easier, and you only lose two ports that probably won't be used anyway.

http://imgur.com/ISnsV
Picture of the SATA-to-USB board.  Search dealextreme for 'slim sata usb' and you'll find it. I'm sure it can be found elsewhere, also.

http://imgur.com/14WJ0
This picture shows where I mounted the SATA-to-USB board.

http://imgur.com/UPaN7
These four wires came from the USB hub (or little USB port on the back if you don't use a hub).  You can pin out what it what with a multimeter from the port right next to it.

http://imgur.com/AN5TH
Sata cable from the back of the dvd-rom solders in here.  You'll have to get the sata pinout from the port on the other side (those solder points are the backside of that port).

http://imgur.com/to46Q
Another downward shot of that board.

http://imgur.com/a/0HbKv/
Whole album link.

---

The single thing that I would want to change most is the sata cable I used.  The sata cable sticks out a bit too far from the back of the dvd-rom drive, pressing up against the power board.  If you use a cable with a right-angle plug, you won't have this problem.