Oh! that's new to me.

The big mystery would still be, Why the original Nand works with the wiring? that's the part I don't really get.

Also, I feel like a lot of info is missing from his part, no pictures, no anything.

There's no warez in hell capable of giving you a chance to develop, that's way ahead from you if your asking.
if you were capable, you wouldn't even ask, thing is, I don't think you have a clue.

Pay the licence, hacker boy, stun us with a Hello World!

That's really strange...

A pic of your wiring would be much more helpful, I know there's so much people with s knowledge capable of matching magic, but none of them is a wizard, that could be helpful...

I don't think is SMC, could be totally wrong, seems like a wiring problem to me... as the original is booting

yes, you have to worry for both things...

it will kill your console, and a little search could be helpful.

Nothing happens, update your firmware, be happy, nothing happens.

I assure you, nothing happens.

DL will avoid you or anyone else from updating the console with an official update, so yes, is very useful

If you have a exploited console, you should use both, if not, forget it, barking at the wrong tree

Also, dash launch is like a plugin system, you need freeboot in case you're using a jtag, and if you do, you should know any update done should be FB and not in the official way.

And you patched your original untouched SMC with SMC_IO, right?

also, you indeed unplugged the power brick to ensure the new SMC comes in action, right?

you have to make sure the patching process goes as you want it, you have to make TMS/TDI match the new wiring in the smc.bin, else, you'll get nonstop E79

I don't get why the blessing, nobody around believes in piracy online, buy your games.

retail game disks are heavier than dvd+r dl, that might be the cause, among some other things. Is the same for a dvd player, sometimes they need some lens cleaning, but originals still play ok.

Gota new box??? Omedetou Gozaimasu !

kidding...

pretty much possible to be jtag friendly  

best wiring does not involve ARGON_DATA anymore (rol board) best spot suggested is AUD_CLAMP instead of ROL, the other one stills DB1F1 or any clone, check the JTAG guides if not familiar.

If you ever did a jtag before, you should know better that ROL is deprecated.


if you have a friend with a Jasper with the alternative wiring already, ask for the 1st 80 blocks, flash it instead of Xell (make backups 1st of curse, at least 2 or 3 matching copies), this will give you bad keyvault, take your CPU key, extract your own SMC, customize it, create freeboot with this smc.bin you just customized, y a volar!!!
be warned, it will give a false possitive Rrod though xell will still work.

This will save some time, is a technique I use

DON'T FORGET TO APPLY VERY SAME WIRING TO YOUR BOX IF USING SOMEONE ELSE'S XELL, OR IT WILL E79

you don't need CPU Key from the other box for this to work.

have you tried the suggested SMC IO config and AUD_CLAMP wiring?

search for smc io

you reflashed to the latest available freeboot, right?

dump your smc's and check if the wiring matches your IO, your new SMC will take effect until you unplug the power from the consoles for a few minutes, it might be the reason they used to work before. how did you created the nand images?

Also, that setup is too much, diodes is enough with the AUD_CLAMP method.

I think you mean bought instead of buyed, which wiring are you using? there are multiple wiring setups.

This happened before, two of my consoles accidentaly got back online, both JTAG, so no luck lasting that much.

I was reading about that...

I don't know how would it go in XP, my PC gave me a hell of BSoD in Xp, should try again and fix them.

So, we only need to get GND to the MPX01, and turn off 3.3V from DVD?


Edit: Already tried it, I have a nForce chipset, my pc suffers some locks and makes difficult to read the key, although it was read once.

would this work on USB or there's any other workaround?

Win7 X64

it's working, but i'm using it in a netbook, and put a 1tb to the jtag

thanks for the advice!

I'm gonna switch the gpu heatsink for a falcon CPU heatsink and have some for the RAM.

Hey gaz, you have a lot more experience in the matter of reflow/reball...

I just had 5 xenons and a Zephyr sent to reball, 3 of the xenons are already back, leaded solder, my question is, will it still get as hot as before?
is that safe?
Silver solder is far more expensive, would it worth it?