Thanks Dicko

I keep running into you

I'll replace it tonight, see if I get rid of the red dot once and for all

Hi guys,

During a repair on a Slim trinity board I noticed the cap at C4C3 being gone, this prevented this xbox from starting (red dot).

I since then replaced it with a random cap from a phat board and it now boots if I press ON a couple of times (first times usually are red dot, but then suddenly it starts the third or fourth time).

When I turn the xbox off and turn it on again with 15 minutes I will boot normally.. if I wait longer it will have a red dot again.

Since I can get it to work by trying a few times, it's not a big problem, but I think it would be solved if I can place the correct cap.

Does someone know which value this cap has ? It's located here (don't mind the wires, they are gone now ) : https://dl.dropbox.com/u/15856171/slimrepair/P1010311.JPG

Thanks !

idog

Cool stuff. I hooked up my Glitched box yesterday and did a bit of programming (just fooling around with colors, text, songs and stuff like that) using VS2010 and the XNA Studio plugin.

As said before, you need to have your pc linked to the xbox.

This is nice and all, and as a programmer I'd like to learn this stuff better Enough ebooks around fortunately.

However, what software do I need when I want to create a deployable product which can run on other jtags/rgh's (including an executable (xex)) ? 

I don't want it to go on Marketplace, rather just create useful applications for other people to enjoy on their jtags/rgh's.

Thanks. Here's hoping for decembruary 32nd (or what was it again )..

As the topic says, I have glitched my Slim and put on ggbuild's 13604 on it. Works fine, but FSD reports the GPU temps to be around 60 degrees celcius.. idle ?

I always thought the Slims were cooler than the old phats. I have a jtag phat which runs at 45 degrees celcius gpu idle.

Anyway, I just thought I used the built-in FSD settings to change the fanspeeds, but it's obviously not built to control the Slim.. changing the percentage there doesn't work.

So, my questions.. is this temperature normal ? I remember glitching another Slim and getting 40 degrees celcius idle on the GPU..  No idea why mine is so hot.
Also, any plugin/other way to control the fan speed software-wise ? I know I can cut 'the blue wire' or put a switch on it so I can go from 5v to 12v when I feel like it, but I would like to run at around 80% or something.

Sold to mm53668, topic can be closed

No sorry, NL (Netherlands) is in Europe.

Not looking for big profits, but they are just not being used here. Didn't fook up as many kamikaze's as I thought, so I won't be using them anymore.

I have 4 in mint condition, and a fifth with a few bent pins, but I'll add that for free.

Preferably European (since I am in the NL) transport only.

I have pictures. If this post is unwanted, tell me and I'll remove it right away.

What do the guys over at TX say about it ?

Thanks phonsey, this settles it then. He has to pay up for a new Liteon   And I didn't mind trying it, was a nice exercise, too bad it didn't yield the desired result :p

Also, awaiting any replies The console used to be on 2.0.9199 before the update to 13599, suppose I would have adjusted the nand at 2.0.9199 to have a Samsung, that would have worked ?

I hope there isn't a same topic already, but if there is, sorry.

Long story (a bit) short(er). Console used to have a Liteon 74850. Replaced with a Samsung drive back in the day and the owner sold his Liteon drive. Finally the owner wants to play newer games and updates to 2.0.13599, so of course the update goes wrong. I replaced the Samsung with the original (type) Liteon, all stock again and the update went ok (ofc).

Now, the thing. The owner doesn't want to pay for a new Liteon drive and wants to put the Samsung back in. First reaction of me would be "no way". But.. then the glitch came. So finally this weekend (console is a Falcon) I could glitch it.

My idea : take the dump and the cpu key and use 360 Flash Tool 0.97 to change the drive OSIG in the dump and flash it back. So that's what I did, and I got christmas lights.

Mind you, I did the same thing with my JTAG (originally Liteon, but now a Samsung) and that worked without problems.

So.. why do I get christmas lights when I try it with this original nand. Are some checks in the freeboot image not done, which are enforced in the stock image ?

(and yes, the cost to the customer of all this would of course be higher than just buy a new drive, but as an exercise/experiment I am doing this for free ).

Hope someone has more insight than I do

Any way to overcome or has the owner no choice but to suck it up ?

I have flashed back the original nand and it's ok again, btw.

You can use any phat liteon actually. And I think you won't have a problem exchanging your 9504 drive with a phat liteon anyway. I'd do it without hesitation and throw in the flashing part as service

I still have a few of these. I bought them before the russian and kamikaze hack were common knowledge

Give me a shout if you still need them.

Shameless bump. No one has any more info on my blabbering ?

Would be cool if there's an alternative to TX's Promodder kit, especially since they are completely sold out. (I have a few MT1335WE's here, but no writeprotect addons (and they don't sell that separately).

Sorry for bringing this thread back to life, but since it was still on page 1...

If one was to try and ENABLE writeprotect on a 9504 or an MT1335WE how would this be possible ?

It's internally (pin 3) bonded to GND in 0225 and up, but in an MT1335WE is it bonded to another outer pin ? Meaning we could short 2 outer pins and it becomes readonly (provided the 0x8C is set) ?

Am I correct in assuming that :

PIN3 bonded with GND + spi status 0x8C = WRITE PROTECTED (cannot be set back to spi status 0x00)
PIN3 bonded with GND + spi status 0x00 = WRITE ENABLED
PIN3 not bonded with GND + spi status 0x8C = WRITE ENABLED  
PIN3 not bonded with GND + spi status 0x00 = WRITE ENABLED

If so (stop me if the above is incorrect), the following is possible ?

- replace IC with MT1335WE
- write CFW (once released, duh..)
- set spi status to 0x8C --> CFW has status register where spi status is set to 0x8C
- create bridge 2 outer pins (which ones ?)

The IC is now WP.

When you want to update your flash, remove the bridge and it is writable again.


_{on a sidenote, I've been reading and although you cannot set the spi status register back to 0x00 once you have set it to 0x8C, there seems to be a 0x8E which enables write again. (just one small forum post somewhere said this and I don't even recall the source, so it's possibly complete BS anyway).
A lot of questions and probably stupid as hell, but still like to know}      

I'll bring a cow ! Gotta make for some major ribs

Glad you're back XBH.. really missed my daily technical mumbo jumbo of which I might grasp 10% anyways

You do realize I wasn't the one who f*cked it up, right ? If you don't, read my post again please Just came here to say thank you.


The only thing that bothers me is that it generates a dummy. So no calibration data is dumped. Other than that, it's quick and easy (also made the PMT probe and tested yesterday).

Just a quick thank you. Thanks to this thread I was able to fix a customers drive that was ruined by two previous 'professionals'

The drive wouldn't even show up in the list when using dosflash. Cleaned it up (solderr everywhere, pieces of trace ripped off) and using this fix (http://www.dream.pic.fi/kuvat/Xbox%20360/Liteonin%20salat/Myrkky%20FIX.JPG/full) brought it back to life.

Then applied MRA the usual way, got a dump and used a new drive to fix his xbox. Also it had the ejecting issue (drive would eject constantly and blink all the time) which I solved with the 3.3v bridge on the bottomside of the mainboard of the xbox itself as per this thread

Bottomline : great community and even better members here

Just a quick thank you. Thanks to this thread I was able to fix a customers drive that was ruined by two previous 'professionals'

The drive wouldn't even show up in the list when using dosflash. Cleaned it up (solderr everywhere, pieces of trace ripped off) and using this fix (http://www.dream.pic.fi/kuvat/Xbox%20360/Liteonin%20salat/Myrkky%20FIX.JPG/full) brought it back to life.

Then applied MRA the usual way, got a dump and used a new drive to fix his xbox. Also it had the ejecting issue (drive would eject constantly and blink all the time) which I solved with the 3.3v bridge on the bottomside of the mainboard of the xbox itself (http://www.xboxhacker.org/index.php?topic=13040.msg92014#msg92014)

Bottomline : great community and even better members here