when will this guy make sense?

or when will he get Polish is not a worldwide language that everyone is able to understand?

getting kind of boring trying to understand him and reading his polish websites.

PS i have to say , this is some proper craftsmanship:




Look at how he makes this heatsink flex LOL

it's about accessibility, why there is JF. And anyone can use JF and be a hacker, right? Apparently not lol

I find it hilarious though. So easy and foolproof yet people still bust their drives in absurd ways (mode-b pin trick on a Samsung thread is on this forum still) and write firmwares with blank keys to Liteons from which no key read has been done. (Ignoring all 3 confirmation windows to obtain a proper key before erasing in JF completely)

I am not an electric guy, nor an expert on all this. I just manage to read and comprehend what I'm doing. People sail blind with PDF guides these days and skip important information thinking "I've got this one in the bag". I'm glad I've read PDFs thoroughly enough to understand this warning (from PDF):

WARNING: If you are going to connect your 360 and PC together in *any* way, then you *must* provide the 360 with a path to true earth ground. This is because the 360 has a floating ground and horrible things happen if all connected systems do not agree on the reference voltage.

^This means you use a wire from PC chassis to 360 chassis^

@OP: You blew something, irreversible damage. There is indeed a dude on this forum who made a solution for this problem, but I doubt it's for you I think it involves PIC programming and soldering  

But hey, at least you are were to use Jungleflasher and hack a drive

140 watt, that'll melt your solder

I fail to see how by just doing a 12V mod (rewire one wire to a 12v source?) you ruin a motherboard in the process due to solder splashes.

you'd be better off in buying a new box, instead of miraculously trying to "fix" RROD by applying more pressure to the chips. There is no fix for RROD, it's temporary as all the BGA work is leadfree. And i've heard a fully leaded BGA rework on the 360 doesn't warrant a permanently fixed console as well.

you wouldn't think these 360's have the RROD as in the RROD? the gpu related error that can be fixed by reflowing or reballing?

also I don't see how swapping NANDs would solve RROD, or have you read some random tutorial online to fix RROD? Doesn't make any sense to me

tip: punctuation

please 

Tell me how would you know if this machine is JTAGable to begin with?

Yah boy you go ring up Xbox Support saying: "that you have been banned from Xbox live for having hacked firmware, and now you wanna pay MS a few bucks to go back to original firmware and be unbanned, just because you wanna play on Live"

When you thought you had seen it all 

it's the new dashboard update (12466?) that adds AP2.5 protection for Black Ops / Halo Reach

if you afraid of failing AP2.5 challenge, update your firmware.

MS failsafe. So that it ruins your key upon external extraction? WTF No I think they must've enabled that little camera inside the Xbox 360 and saw you were tampering with the drive, thus immediately erasing the key and all functionality of the Xbox 360.

These Hitachi's are easy. Done in under 5 minutes. So why are you (and that other person on X-S) having trouble , and all those other thousands of users are not?

I find it funny, you're looking for an excuse. Something or someone to blame. Even making up the most random stuff to not blame yourself (to excuse yourself)

You might wanna look for this at yourself. It's not hard to identify a key that isn't OK, it's not hard to figure out a key is not OK and should NOT be flashed. And sure as hell the key doesn't automatically change because you tried to read the drive.

What I would want to blame is yourself. Acknowledging you were the one that made a mistake.

I'm pretty sure if someone else would've flashed that drive, someone who does know what he was doing, everything would've been OK.

Now you know why. It's you. $#!t happens, people f*** up. Even I lost drives and have made mistakes, but I can manage to blame myself.

there's a huge thread about fried liteons. read it.

and if it doesn't help you, there's nothing you can do about it.

I think there's a few people in here that can repair them though.

had the opportunity to test on LT flashed Liteon and this works fine thx

so you even checked what Yaris Swap did in hex? And you still can't answer your question?

last time I checked Yaris Swap worked fine to "yaris-swap"


You should make an app called Free60 swap, and make it null the bytes Free60 tells you to null.

Then you'll have 2 "correct" swapping programs.

what a useless topic bump

and rainbow leds would be cool, if you're gay.

I guess people still don't know if you update past 7xxx there is no exploit anymore lol

Le Fluffy.

you can't just use content on another console. Unless you're signed in to your Live Profile on which you originally bought the DLC. In which case all you need to do is redownload the DLC.

Or if you have a JTAG console you can use any DLC.

nice website to order from. 55 reviews and a grand total of 1 out of 5 stars

http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Foundmy

That still doesn't fix the drive. HDDhackr doesn't work with original HDD's (only WD), meaning there's no way to flash an SS, meaning the drive is useless for use in Xbox 360

if it's an original 360 hdd, there is no way back. In other words you ruined it.

Erase the slim driver then Intro it. like any other Lite-on

i think about doing that too, a push-to-break switch on the probe itself. More convenient