I got a connection between R707 (TX) and various other resistors and caps on the board.. as the R707 goes straight back to the chipset im guess that it must be f00ked in the ML1913


My suspicion is that the drive doesnt know that the tray is half open as the "tray status" line is shagged. i think one of the outside resistors to 707 and 708 are something to do with it...

Apartently you cant dump the key without the resistors.. I have measured he resistance on both left and right resistor and they are 100 and 104 which i think is normal

Goodluck

Just out of interest

1) does the drive still fuction correctly in the 360 without these resistors?
2) Is the key still readable without the 2 resistors?

I have a liteon i cant get the key from, the resistors look fine, but they MAY have blown etc etc

I have a LITEON exactly like yours mate.....

I have 3 liteons here, the other 2 i read the key fine as normal with a connectiviy kit v3...

But this liteon gives me CCCCCCCCCCCC as Key
The controller chip gets hot just like your bu it does still work fine in the 360

I have tested that 707 is bridged correctly using a multimeter and even checked that it runs right back to the leg 123 on the ML1319L....

It looks like we have blown the part of the controller chip that gives out the key...

Checked on all the red points in the pic below:


I havent checked that +3.3v and Ground run all the way back to pins 125 (earth) and 122 (3.3v) with continuity tester, guess can do that next...

Does anyone know if these 3 traces are a straight run all the way back to these pins on the chip?

Has anyone any other suggestions?

Does anyone know if these chips are supposed to run hot? i think that they are as there is a heat conductive pad stuck on the lid casing.

Thanks in advance

Please can some1 help me, i cant think of anythink else to try.....

I first used a max232 cable that i allready had, no good, then bought a max3232 kit from ebay.. no good.. so finally bought a Xecuter V3 Connectivity Kit.. but still getting Key: CC CC CC CC CC CC  CC CC CC CC CC CC

I am getting Enquiry and Identify just fine through the Sata, but cant get the key...



I soldered the jumpers and then checked with a multimeter set to Continuity and tested that the jumpers were joining by testing the points in the picture above...

I have tried using DOS, the xtractor software and i have tried using DVDkey32.. all i get is CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC CC for the key or the failed box in xtractor or sega:54 in dos.

I have tried using the usb part of the connectivity kit and have tried the serial adaptor.
I have tried 1) ejecting, switch kit off, push tray in half way, power on, read, 2) Eject, eject to get it to start going back in, then cutting power, pushing then to half way, power on then read. ive tryed as xecuter instrcutions say, eject push half way in then read...

Also i have noticed that the point i have marked TX? in Orange text seems to be joined with TX? is this normal?
The drive still works but could i have killed the part that pumps out the key?
I really am out of ideas? please can someone help me?
Thanks in advance

Do we only need the TX to read the key ?

i "think" you can use a 232 but dont use the +V ?
Does the rs232 require 3.3v or does the liteon need 3.3v supplied to it? because the connectivity kit does that?

can some1 please maybe expain what Identify.bin and Enquiry.bin are?

Are they the details to hex edit into other drive FW`s to spoof them as a LITEON drive?

Surely they will all be the same in all liteon drive? only the DVD Key dfferent?

ive done this a few times, just scrape back the top layers above the chip the leg goes long into the chip, then solder some cynar to the leg and solder the other end to the solder point of the adaptor.
good luck

Jayque has fixed it !!!

with the use of a "Rubber band mod"

Think the vid is on youtube

Hi there,
anychance any1 has a solution to this problem which seems to be new?

2 Perfectly working Sammy drives, one MS25 and one MS28

The MS25 flashed with Xtreme1.1 and working fine for months......
It was then updated to X3.3.... After that now heres what happens:
From Cold the xbox will boot 1 backup, if the backup is taken out and REPLACED with another backup, it fails to start and says "OPEN TRAY"
if the same backup that was booted from cold is put back in then it loads fine.
Originals still loads fine....

When the new backup is put in then it makes a clicking sound, which i think is the laser trying to force itsleft to far one way.. and the new backup doesnt boot.

If the laser is forced off the side, then the backups load....

The backups are 100% fine.
The flash went perfectly as i compared the bin after reading agian after flashing
The Laser works 100% fine as Any backup works if it is booted/played from cold.
The firmware i dont think it the problem as even when flashed back to xtreme 1.1 it still has the same problem.
The Key is correct and in the right place

This is also reported to happen with another drive a MS28 which was updated to X3.2...

JayQue has even made a video to show how he fixes it by moving the laser each time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L33MfiV3ffs

Can any1 pls think of anything that could be casuing this?
It seems to me that the laser is trying to read too far in or out, and is making a clicking sound.

thanks in advance. 

would some1 pls be kind enough to confirm ive got this right?
are my numbers correct? and am i hexing in the right place?
seems wrong to me as the last 4 digits are repeated the line after?

Its for the Nvidea 410 chipset. and i checked out the 410 mktflash posted on here and its slightly different?

Cheers in advance everyone

If it does not exist (pre V3 backup) a seperate embedded PFI is used for Xbox 360 and Xbox 1.

So.. Can we patch our Pre V3 backups with something to add this new detection? and make it a V3 Backup?

cheap media

ive had some cheap disks last 3weeks...

omg no....
12v to pin9 !!!!!!!

can some1 pls confirm that:


flashsec47_win d encrypted.bin 90004000 1000

is the correct command to flash the 47 version hitahci?
This command worked fine on my 46? is the 47 key in the same place?
or do i need to flash in a new area for the 47?

Cheers

Im having trouble figuring out what is going on here???  
Ive tried lots of combianations also, and ive not yet managed to burn any that boot without the reset tricks

Some1 else burnt a disk for me a while back and it works fine? its cheap CMC MAG media...

Heres my setup
Pioneer 111d with TDB 1.23 firmware
Clonecd 5.2.9.1
Hitachi 46 and 47 with xtreme 1.1fw
Verb disks burnt at 2.4

none boot ?

Ive found that if you get Dirty disk error (which i was getting with NEC) then the reset trick will never work, but if you get "open tray" then the reset tricks will work.

Is there anything else i can try?
other people are using the same setup at me and having sucess?

I remember the Cobra bios for the Cube.. every1 had trouble with different media and burn methods and they finally released an update which sorted every1 out in one update. lets all hope c64 will come up with something for us yet again 

no hope there mate soz

need to remove and flash the tsop then refit it

u UK ?

Thx mate, i shorted the 2 and its sorted now

Default Settings:
RIGHT x3
DOWN x6
A
UP
A


Lowest video setting:
RIGHT x3
A
A
A
UP
A
B
B
B

hope this helps

how about reset to default?
gimme 10min ill have a look for ya