Something went wrong while flashing the LiteOn for the first time. I have extracted the key successfully and managed to save the Xbox with another drive.

Now I would like to recover the drive. The drive still opens and ejects, but it hangs Xbox while trying to read something. I have extracted the firmware again but JungleFlasher reports "Parse Failed!".
Basically I think the firmware is corrupt. The drive is not recognized by JungleFlasher and LiteOn erase doesn't seem to work.

Any ideas?

Thanks for the help, please post if you make any progress.

I was trying to read firmware from an already flashed Liteon 74850C which had R707 and R708 soldered. By mistake I touched the board with spear probe on another point and it seems it killed it.
Now drive doesn't work anymore, not even open/eject.

What I need is the key from the drive. I tried the new method which is used for Liteon V3 and V4 without success. JungleFlasher always reports the drive stats as 0x80 and it doesn't recognize it.
The only thing that is different is that the MT1319L chip on ther drive board gets hot very quickly.

Any idea what else can I try? Xbox 360 is brand new and the JTAG won't work.

Kernel version is 7370 (or something similar), definitely not 8xxxx. I was reading that CB needs to be below 6750, but I have no idea what that means.

I have an Xbox 360 made in September 2009, DVD drive is 93850 LiteOn from September as well. Since atm you can't read the key from the drive is it possible to use the JTAG exploint for Jasper to get the key from motherboard?

Received first reply:
Thanks for your interested in our item.
but  we can not find about which item you talked .could you please kindly tell
us the item number ? so that we can help you soon.

Now I'm waiting for the 2nd one

Have yet to receive a reply. The seller is also selling 120GB for a lower price which means it doesn't seem to be a typo.
Maybe they got their hands on a HDD still being manufactured or was supposed to be. I agree it doesn't make sense for such a small increase, but neither did increasing from 20GB to only 60GB, given the price they charge they would have to sell 320 and 500GB drives. But even Sony is lacking behing in storage capacity.

I'm not so sure. I've seen a few auctions that come and go. Do a google search.
Anway I've contacted the seller to verify.

What is the most conveniant way to stress test the console besides playing it? I'm thinking about a game that goes into demo and pushes the hardware as much as when playing the console.

I've seen a few auctions on ebay that sell 160GB Xbox 360 hard drives. Is there a new mod available?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MICROSOFT-160GB-HARD-DISK-DRIVE-HDD-FOR-XBOX-360_W0QQitemZ120387996794QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVideo_Games_Accessories?hash=item120387996794&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177

Is it possible to remove this sticker without visible damage? I've tried with heat and a razor but it doesn't work.
Does Microsoft really void the warranty if this sticker is damaged?

I see, erasing would have been possible without opening the drive. Too bad I found out after I opened the drive. Temperatures were around -7. Anyway I have returned the console and it is being sent to warranty.

All warranty stickers were intact, no solder traces. I do know how to remove first two stickers without trace, but not the one on Liteon drive. Is it even possible? Since it was intact I do not believe someone already tryed to flash it.

I received an Xbox 360 Elite for flashing. I opened the console, took the drive out, opened it and connected to connectivity kit 3. I powered the drive and pressed eject but nothing happened. Tried a few times without success, later even on the console itself. The drive simply doesn't power on and appears to be dead.
Is it possible that I may have damaged it somehow? I was sure that the power cable was on the correct side (since I've already damaged another one before). The only thing I can think of is that I didn't discharge myself before touching the console and that the needle I use for TX connection may have been touching the external case I use for powering the CK3. Its even possible that I received a damaged console although there were no signs of warranty stickers (all 3) being damaged.

There was a DVD in the drive as well. Is it possible that it damaged the drive when being transported? It was also very cold today and the console was say 1 hour on sub zero temperatures.

Is there anything else I can try? For the moment I'm leaving the console on so that it warms up.

Basically is it possible to flash a new key over the existing one so you can use it in another console?

So why hasn't Microsoft done that in the first place? I mean the drive still works just can't be modded.

Thanks, but I am past that. I have dumped keys from two other drives. Just not this one since something is damaged. I need help with this.

I shouldn't have, but I have extracted two keys by now from different drives.

But the first one still isn't working. I've been playing with multimeter and there is a connection between R707 and R710. I scratched around but it doesn't help. Btw the soldering job was done by a professional (not me of course).
Sometimes I even get a connection between the point above GIO2 (above letter G) and R707, R708, R709 and R710. Same goes for R707 and R710, sometimes I get a reading, sometimes I don't. I compared the results to a new drive where the readings are as expected (only connection is between GIO2 and R707).

Anyway I'm sure I have damaged something, could someone give me a few options I could try? I tried making a direct connection between GIO2 and TX on CK3 by copying the following idea: http://www.evilplaysgames.com/sigs/DSC00555.JPG. Except that I cutted the 11th wire so that the connection goes straight to CK3.

I have tried another drive no and I'm still getting the CCCCCC key. I was told that I can test the CK3 by joining RX and TX but I don't know how.