You will have to adjust the resistor configuration next to the NAND too, to match that of a 16MB console.

Sorry, we don't support dickless little kiddies that deserve to be set on fire here.

For the large pads and ground areas, 25W is likely just too weak.

I doubt he still needs to play the game after 8 months.

Did you try another PSU?

Use hotglue.. tape doesn't prevent much if you accidently get the wire tangled up and pulled on. A drop of hotglue will keep it in place.

If you have never soldered on points this small, either let someone else do it, or practice A LOT on a scrap board first. These points come off quite easily.
Use pliable wire, not stiff, make sure to not heat up the point for longer than a second or two. Pre-tin the wire tips to make them stick faster.

Bad SMC will cause the console to not power on, but the power supply will remain green.

That usually happens if you have a short circuit somewhere.

First of all, that thing is called Xell. Second, how did you build freeboot? From the sound of it, the image is simply bad.

Those NANDs are a completely generic part, they're used all over, not just 360. The PCB should easily be doable on a single layer, since you're just connecting points 1:1.

No power up without the PSU turning red usually points to a bad SMC/bad flash. Did you remove power from the console for a while after flashing? The SMC is cached and will only reset once it loses power.

No, and I doubt anyone will ever bother.

Wow. Zero information what you want to do, and wrong section on top of it. So impressive, it just has to go to the trash.

So why exactly are you opening a new thread instead of using the one discussing it already?

Xell won't magically jump on your console from a chip that just tries to cause it to crash at the right moment. Of course you have to flash the console before it can work.. just don't forget to actually dump the nand a few times and check that it is a good dump before you do.

Ah, sorry.. I read that as 2011, not 2010. So yeah, it is glitchable.

Before drive mod yes, before glitch doesn't matter. However, with that manufacturing date, chances are pretty good that it's not glitchable, the drive may or may not be flashable. You'll have to open it to be sure.

It just takes a dab of the paste, it spreads out from the pressure. You should put the original pads back on there.

The penny trick is garbage, and you probably didn't mount the heatsink right or tight enough (or too tight) if this happens.
Generic thermal paste works fine.