Not sure, I didn't actually try to write yet. But for me, it ended up always messing up at 01B, with both nandpro 2.0a and 2.0b.. with the older hex, 2.0b doesn't work, but I got four matching dumps easily with 2.0a.

220n.
But I believe I found the issue, thanks to [c0z] from #freexex.. I flashed the older 3a firmware to the PIC and now it's currently already past half of the dump.

13 is connected to 5V, yes. I use a 18F2455.

It seems the error always happens at 1B for me now.. slows down and then errors starting at 1B, with totally random error codes.

The CPU key is nowhere on the NAND. It's ONLY in the CPU, which is why you need to run Xell to have it displayed.

13? What resistor is supposed to be there?

Looking for usb interface device
FlashConfig:01198010
Starting Block:0x000000
Ending   Block:0x0003FF
Reading
Error:  A3 reading block 0
Error:  AC reading block 1
Error:  B9 reading block 2

The oddest thing is, the flashconfig is alright.

edit: pin 26.. should that go directly to GND since I don't need an external programmer anymore (chip is already programmed and all)?
edit2: makes no difference. I've gotten up to 1B for reading before it starts erroring, but it ALWAYS eventually goes nuts. I tried on win7 with the updated driver, on winxp with the older driver and the updated driver, none of it makes any difference.

hrm.. I just built the USB flasher, but once I start the dump, I get 1, 2, maybe 3 blocks with errors, afterwards the entire device disconnects and is dead for a while. There's no shorts, I checked several times.
It's flashed with the latest binaries, and does detect normally and all.

edit: wtf.. I found that pin 13 had a bad connection.. fixed it, started dumping, after 40 or so correctly dumped blocks it disconnects again and then only errors again too.

The difference is that MS actually learned from the old drives. It's a serious plus that there even is a method to force dumping.. and you can expect that another drive revision will be even more protected.

The problem were my diodes. BAT42 don't work, 4158 did.
I occassionally get E79 and have to re-setup, though.. but I've seen the same for several other people happening.

E74 is already a damaged solder connection, so just cooling it won't help.

ok, this is weird.. I just removed the jtag wiring, reflashed to original nand, and it works ok (did about 5 starts without issues.. previously it would error 4 out of 5).. it's not a bad flash, though (infectus and used write verify).

Also, it seems the jtag wiring interferes directly with the infectus.. the software always errored out when trying to flash until I took the jumper wire off.

Should BAT42 diodes work? I'd normally think so, but that's the only idea I got there.

gives me 1033.

it delays a bit the first time, but most of the time comes on instantly.
rolf2: what do you mean? diode in which direction?
what's odd is just that it happens only most of the time, not always.

Just tried a diode either way, and get 1033 (bad system files).

I got a Zephyr sitting here that got a ROD fix in it, and randomly gives me 0020 (and once, 0022). It's jtagged. Could the jtagging be the issue? I've tried the usual pressing on the board/rams/cpu/gpu stuff, but it makes no difference. when the console runs, it loads up xell or xbreboot just fine, and plays games without any glitches.
Any ideas?

f*** you. this has been asked two or three times in just a week.

I did it (with r6t3 removed) and it worked perfectly fine.

the diode way is theoretically safer than the resistors. I've had no issues with the resistors, though.

you didn't insert your keyvault, that's why.

You may have to spoof the identification string if it is a different hitachi model (i.e. 78 vs 47).

Just run the update from the xbox.com homepage. Since XBR is already at 8955, it will only install the avatar part of it.

ah, ok.. then you may have to wait till he updates it.